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Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Sushi Fans Say the Rituals, Flavors and Health Benefits are Delicious
By Eric Billingsley
Of the Journal
Eating raw seafood in Albuquerque may sound like a sketchy proposition. After all, the city's largest body of water is the Rio Grande and the nearest ocean is a 12-hour drive away.
But for many Duke City residents, our land-locked status matters not. Consuming raw and exotic seafood at local restaurants is a ritual that borders on obsession. They are sushi aficionados.
"We're in the restaurant business, but we both prefer sushi over anything," says 26-year-old Tara Bond. She and husband Rick, 24, go out for sushi at least once a week— not a cheap habit.
Jim Thompson / Journal
This sashimi platter from Azuma features salmon, red snapper and super white tuna, along with cucumber, pickled ginger and wasabi.
Albuquerque's sushi scene has taken off during the past decade. At least 14 restaurants offer sushi in town. What keeps people coming back for more? Loyal followers point to the health benefits, as well as the ambience and the adventure.
"We really like trying different foods," says Bond, "and the nice thing about sushi is you can order so many things in one sitting."
And, if you love it, but can't afford to go out all the time, it can be made at home. Whole Foods Market, Nantucket Shoals Seafood Market and Talin Market all sell sushi-grade fish and other ingredients.
Sushi defined
Technically, the term "sushi" refers to vinegared rice. However, it's also used broadly to refer to the combination of rice and bite-size pieces of fish. Or it often means eating raw fish in the Japanese style, according to sushifaq.com. Not all sushi is raw. Some fish is marinated or cooked.
According to the Web site, the five most common types are:
Sashimi, raw fish served without rice;
Chirashi, a bowl of rice topped with sashimi;
Maki, rice and seaweed rolls with fish and vegetables inside;
Nigiri, bite-size pieces of rice topped with raw or cooked fish; and
Temaki, a hand-cone of rice, fish and vegetables wrapped in seaweed.
Types of seafood range from salmon to octopus, sea urchin and fish eggs. Each piece is presented artistically and served with pickled ginger and wasabi— a horseradish paste that's hot enough to clear anybody's sinuses. Sushi is dipped in shoyu, a Japanese soy sauce.
"Sushi is edible art as well," says Min Cheung, general manager of Shogun Japanese Restaurant in Nob Hill, adding that traditional sushi chefs study their craft for many years before setting foot behind the bar. "In Japan they try and make everything pretty. And there's a saying that if it doesn't look good, it doesn't taste good."
Cheung says main differences in styles at various sushi bars lie in how the chefs prepare the rice, the freshness of the fish and other ingredients, chef's recipes for special sauces and food preparation techniques.
Shogun has fresh fish delivered twice a week, and Azuma Sushi & Teppan on San Mateo at least every other day. Prices also vary slightly. Be prepared to spend at least $20 per person, sans drinks and dessert. It's easy to rack up a $100-plus bill among four people.
Amanda Giannini and five or six of her friends, all in their early 20s, go out for sushi a couple of times a month or "whenever the craving takes over." They mostly frequent three sushi bars.
"Shogun is strictly for the awesome sushi, but not so much for sake bombing" (where a shot glass of sake— warm rice alcohol— is dropped into a pint of beer and consumed immediately), says Giannini. "I Love Sushi— only if you plan on having teppan— and Sushi and Sake are much more apt to have a large group. So they become the best place to get your sake on, plus they have some of the best sushi around."
The ritual
Going out for sushi is half show and half dining. Sitting at the bar gives you an opportunity to interact with the chefs and observe their artistry.
"Most people who sit at the bar are big sushi fans," says Anna Su, owner of Azuma. "Many know sushi and never order from the menu."
Jarmila Mikulas and Sandy Behal of Albuquerque, both 58, have been eating sushi together since the 1980s. They frequent Azuma at least once a month.
"Jarmila introduced me to it and I'm hooked," says Behal, who admits she didn't like it at first. She acquired a taste for the food after experimenting with different types.
Both women prefer sashimi and love to sip sake on cold days. They appreciate the friendly environment at Azuma and give the chef creative license to prepare whatever he wants for them.
"The chef always does something special," says Mikulas, "and it's the perfect thing for us." They also enjoy sharing off of each other's plates— a common practice in groups of sushi lovers.
Bond says eating sushi is romantic.
"It's very intimate for a couple," she says. "We share everything, even pouring each other's sake and feeding each other at times."
Some enthusiasts mix smaller pieces (nigiri) with the larger rolls to feel well-fed. On a practical level, rolls are often more food for your money.
A healthy obsession
Devotees and restaurant professionals are quick to point out the health benefits of sushi. "It's the healthiest fast food you'll ever get," says Cheung.
Fish is low-fat and high in heart-healthy Omega-3 fatty acids. The American Heart Association recommends eating fish, especially fatty fish, at least twice a week. Serving sizes are also generally much smaller than other restaurant foods.
"It's not too heavy or unhealthy, and there's always something new to try since every place has at least a couple of rolls that differ," says Giannini.
Bond appreciates sushi because it doesn't contain gluten, an ingredient she's allergic to and that is found in many foods. Mikulas says she can limit her carbohydrate intake by ordering fish— a simple protein— without the rice.
"It's easy on the body," says Mikulas, "plus it's so beautiful."
However, less traditional options, such as the Philly Roll (smoked salmon, cream cheese, avocado and green onions), are likely to be higher in fat and cholesterol. Pregnant and breastfeeding mothers also shouldn't eat raw fish or shellfish because it may contain harmful parasites and high levels of mercury.
Still intimidated by sushi? If so, restaurant pros and enthusiasts recommend talking with the sushi chef and starting out with the cooked and less exotic types. If you develop a taste for the delicacies, feel free to venture into uncharted waters.
Local sushi places
Here's a sampling of sushi spots in Albuquerque and Rio Rancho: AmerAsia/SumoSushi 800 Third NW, 246-1615, slated to open soon Azuma Sushi & Teppan 4701 San Mateo NE, 880-9800 Crazy Fish Restaurant 3015 Central NE, 232-3474 I Love Sushi 6001 San Mateo NE, 883-3618 Ichiban Japanese Restaurant 10701 Coors NW, 899-0095 Japanese Kitchen Sushi Bar 6511 Americas Parkway NE, 872-1166 Japengo Sushi & Sake 4959 Pan American Freeway NE Suite C, 344-4469 Noda's Japanese Cuisine 2704 Southern Blvd. SE, Rio Rancho, 891-4378 Osaka Steak House 1463 Rio Rancho Drive SE, Rio Rancho, 892-7778 Samurai Grill & Sushi Bar 9500 Montgomery NE, 275-6601 Shogun Japanese Restaurant 3310 Central SE, 265-9166 Sushi Gen Corporation 5210 San Mateo NE, 830-0131 Sushi-Hama Japanese Restaurant 2918 Eubank NE, 293-6055 Sushi King 118 Central SW, 842-5099 Taka Sushi 901 San Pedro SE, 256-1371
Tips to try at home
After dropping more than a few dollars at local sushi bars, you may be tempted to prepare it yourself. Or, you may order a large batch and serve it at your next house party. Either way, there are a few rules to keep in mind when preparing and presenting sushi. Use sushi-grade fish: It has been prepared in a way that kills harmful parasites that live on fish. Pick contrasting colors: Sushi appears vibrant when you use rich red tuna next to the green of avocados or yellow of an omelet. Vary flavors: Experiment with fish and vegetables, and don't be intimidated about trying unusual ingredients. Experiment with texture: Balance ingredients that are soft, chewy and crunchy. Use quality ingredients: Each component should be of high enough quality of freshness and flavor that it can stand alone. Serving suggestions: Simplicity is the overriding rule of presentation. Don't over-garnish or pile too much sushi on one plate. Arrange plates with only one or two rolls each. Include wasabi and pickled ginger as garnish. Sushi roll pieces should be small enough to eat in one bite. Keep pieces evenly sized. Have fun and, keeping simplicity in mind, make the presentation a work of art.— Source: SushiNow.com
Fish sources
Nantucket Shoals Seafood Market 5415 Academy NE 821-5787 Talin Market World Food Fare 88 Louisianna NE 268-0206 Whole Foods Market 5815 Wyoming NE 856-0474
