Sophia’s and Ezra’s places have a most-welcome new sibling

Dennis Apodaca has spent the last several years keeping his Albuquerque dynasty running smoothly at both Sophia’s Place and Ezra’s Place, but a third location was in the works. Just a stone’s throw from Ezra’s you’ll now find Jo’s Place, a more casual menu theme with just a few twists you should by now expect from his imagination.

While cozy Sophia’s makes for intimate dining and Ezra’s sprawls above bowling lanes with big vinyl booths, Jo’s is settling on an identity in between, with local artists’ works prominently hung on the walls, custom-made “prayer” flags bearing stencils of cute canines instead of cryptic text and small tables dotted throughout the open room. Service is quick and friendly, but not tableside — you’ll order at the counter after consulting the menu board and a specials list, eyeballing the daily pastries.

Daily specials often include soft tacos, quesadillas and burger creations using whatever ingredients are the kitchen’s current favorites, items erased as popularity collides with supply. Do not begin your meal without the Chips and Salsa Trio ($3.25). Fresh chips crunchy with salt flakes are good for scooping up pineapple and charred-tomato salsas and pico de gallo.

That should hold anyone over long enough for another small item to arrive — the Chicken and Lime Tortilla Soup ($5). Larger than expected, the soup’s chunky pieces of chicken and mildly spicy broth would make a satisfying light lunch. Indeed, the soup and a plain burger are featured as “Comida Economicas” for $5 each on the menu — proof that gourmet talents can be had for near fast-food prices.

The dishes at all three restaurants are both artfully presented and full of homemade ingredients. One perfect example of this can be found in the special Mole Puebla Burger ($10), just your run-of-the-mill patty turned decadent by an anointing of earthy red mole made from scratch by Dennis. Another daily special was a Habanero Salmon Salad ($11), greens tossed with black beans, pepitas and dressing and topped with the pink filet, delicious despite lacking much of the promised heat.

Many restaurants stay open because they have consistency and a good price-to-value ratio, but getting well known can often hinge on a great item — at Jo’s Place the dish is the Mexican Mushroom Burger ($10). Deeply hued huitlacoche is sautéed, then draped over the burger along with mild cheese, making for the most luxurious mushroom and Swiss experience imaginable. The reason why is the huitlacoche, a rare fungus that grows only on corn, imparting both texture and flavor of dark mushroom and corn kernels as well as bursting with vitamins. Delicious and good for you — what a pleasure.

Something so meaty can be balanced by a little sweet — leap on a pastry if it catches your eye, or try my favorite, a vanilla bean frosted red velvet cupcake, perfectly portioned and obviously homemade, just like nearly everything in the restaurant.

Photo Credit – pat vasquez-cunningham/journal
Cutline – Jo’s Place manager and cook Jered Mann carries a cheeseburger with fries and a red chile Caesar salad to customers.