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You’re on a trip to San Diego, or even Baja California or perhaps another southern West Coast locale. The sun is in your eyes, the smells of the surf tingling your nose, the sights of beach bodies and, wait — what’s that? A beachside taco shop? Hold everything. I need a fish taco, now, please. Extra cabbage and a squeeze of lime, thank you.
Alas, this is Albuquerque, more than 600 miles from the closest coast, and those in search of fish tacos need to do a little hunting rather than finding them on every street corner. Nonetheless, we have a smattering of places to get your fish fix, both Baja style and “nuevo.”
So, what is a true San Diego- or Baja Ensenada-style taco? For those of you who have not experienced this unlikely delight, it requires: corn tortilla heated on a grill; battered and deep fried fish fillet, usually halibut or snapper; shredded cabbage; tangy crema, a light sour cream-based sauce; hot salsa; a squeeze of lime; and everything else is optional, including onions or cilantro. Leaning more toward the healthy aspect, you’ll find the fish grilled at most Albuquerque locations, but they can still be delicious.
Ezra’s Place
6132 Fourth St. NW (in Lucky Bowl)
344-1917
Cruising up North Fourth Street, you’ll arrive at a trio of restaurants owned by Dennis Apodaca, a chef whose name has been revered by local foodies since his days at Fajitaville. At Ezra’s Place he serves up his grilled cod tacos ($11) with fresh pico de gallo and a drizzle of Mexican crema, with some of the best black beans in town on the side. Feeling adventurous? A frequent special item swaps out the cod for scallops, each with a rich brown sear yet tender in the middle. Uniquely delicious and surprising — that’s what Ezra’s is known for.
El Norteño
1431 Wyoming NE (near Constitution)
299-2882 www.elnorteno.com
El Norteño is one of the few places to get Baja style, and you’ll have to ask for it, lest your cod fillet end up grilled by default. Its Tacos de Pescado swaddles the fish in fresh batter before nestling in soft corn tortillas with lettuce, a mild digression from the cabbage you’ll see on the coast. You won’t leave famished, as the plate includes beans and rice to complement the crispy fried fish. The location on Wyoming has been doing well, with loyal fans making the trip as well as new diners discovering them for the first time.
Desert Fish
4214 E. Central (near Washington)
266-5544 http://desertfishabq.com
Much newer to the scene but making big waves is Desert Fish, specializing in nearly everything aquatic in origin, from oysters and steamed crabs to halibut steaks. Its fish tacos ($9) start with cod, and the fillets are either blackened or fried and served with jicama slaw and a cilantro cream drizzle. The batter on each fillet is thin, crunchy and rich all at the same time, the perfect counterpoint to the soft tortillas. Chef Carrie Eagle has nothing but passion for what she does, and it shows both in the food as well as the hospitality you’ll experience whether your first visit or your 28th.
Bailey’s on the Beach
2929 Monte Vista NE (Central & Girard)
717-2880 http://baileysonthebeach.com
Every time I set foot in Bailey’s on the Beach I just feel … coastal. The bright colors, the light smoothies and really excellent iced coffee all contribute to this impression. And of course, you can get fish tacos, two mahi mahi tacos ($8) to a plate topped with papaya slaw and salsa. The default is a simple grilling, but those in the know will ask for blackened with extra seasonings and time on the fire. Owner Roy Solomon is usually on hand, offering a smile or menu advice if needed. Flip-flops optional, but certainly not frowned upon.
Slate Street Cafe
515 Slate NW
243-2210 http://slatestreetcafe.com
Beginning the roundup of grilled fish tacos, a local favorite with the business crowd offers its take on upscale beach food. Slate Street Cafe’s rendition is available during weekday lunch hours and tucks tilapia, cabbage, avocado and condiments into a lunch dish fit for a fish-loving king ($11). Owner Myra Ghattas can be found most days making sure everything flows well, and there is a smile on all dining faces through breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Nob Hill Bar & Grill
3128 E. Central
266-4455 http://upscalejoint.com
Nob Hill Bar & Grill reinvents its menu now and again to surprise and thrill jaded foodies. The menu still retains fish tacos ($12) that are nearly Baja style in all but the grilled fish: cabbage, avocado, Mexican crema and salsa all top the little bundles. While you eat you can contemplate the extensive new menu or peruse cocktails that might pair well with your tacos.
El Patio
142 Harvard SE (just south of Central)
268-4245 http://elpatiodealbuquerque.com
Longtime university-area favorite El Patio has added battered fish tacos to its menu on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. According to owner Dave Sandoval, “We’re selling a ton of them.” A plate of two tacos plus French fries is $6.50.
