Eatery looks Chinese from outside, but inside it’s pure Saigon

This dish, “Broken Rice Served with Six Flavors,” has grilled pork, shredded pork skin, shrimp, egg, pork pie and Chinese sausage. (JIM THOMPSON/JOURNAL)

Trying to find a Vietnamese restaurant in Albuquerque is like trying to find a red light camera — simply put, they seem to be everywhere. To enthusiasts, this is a wonderful thing — no part of town is overlooked, and the variety of décor and ambience is vast. A neophyte to the cooking of Saigon and its lush country might be stymied, wondering where to go for the good stuff; happily there is a new spot near Coronado Shopping Center serving both authentic and delicious examples of what Vietnam has to offer: Kim Long Asian Cuisine.

Yes, it appears Chinese — do not let that deter you, for once you are inside further confusion ensues when you look at the walls and realize this space used to be some kind of deli or something generically American. Checkered tile flooring and ceiling-level embellishments proclaiming “grill” and “deli” are best ignored. When Kim Long opened, it seems redecorating took second fiddle, leaving it to the business at hand — making excellent Vietnamese food.

There are two rules to follow here for each menu section: order two things, one familiar and one new. Appetizers ought to start with egg rolls; of the million egg rolls you’ve eaten, these could possibly be three of the best. The family recipe tightly stuffs a thin wrapper down to cigar size with taro root and the usual pork and shredded cabbage. There’s a temptation to order these as takeout to smuggle in your handbag next time you have Chinese in town.

Now, go for it and order another appetizer, ordering “blindly” — choose something you’ve never had, such as the Clear Shrimp Dumpling (added recently in pen to the menu, $3.75). Whole shrimp are encased in a wonderfully chewy wrapper, clear as glass and chewy like boba tea balls, served with shredded fried onion and a cool dipping sauce.

Entrées should follow the same guidance: Order a familiar small bowl of Pho ($6.95) and find yourself lost in the rich broth and aroma from the fresh herbs you’ve torn up and tossed into the mix. The meat is your choice, from steak to chicken and beyond. The chicken is from the family’s own husbandry, a perfect example of farm-to-table that I heartily endorse.

The unusual entrée you’ll love is anything from the “Broken Rice” category ($6.95-$8.95), a Vietnamese take on a bento box — without the box. Mounded rice is flanked by your choice of savories, from grilled shrimp to spicy pork or even Chinese sausage. Dipping sauce for everything is included, and you can eat each item in sequence or sample to your liking. The pork is well-seasoned and tender; even a fried egg nailed over-medium status exactly.

Since September you’d be excused if you’ve driven past Kim Long without a second glance — it certainly doesn’t announce to the world, “Eat Vietnamese Here!” The staff’s friendliness and the home-style cooking cannot go overlooked for much longer. For this place that appears to be just another strip-mall Chinese outfit, diners willing to give it a go will leave with a big smile on their face and a happy belly.

Kim Long Asian Cuisine LOCATION: 2325 San Pedro NE (near Uptown Boulevard), 503-7279, www.kimlongalb.com