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Seafood takes center stage on the menu at the Mexican restaurant El Zarandeado. (Richard Pipes/Journal)
There are nearly 6,000 miles comprising the Mexican coastline; this should give pause to anyone who thinks that “Mexican” and “seafood” do not belong in the same phrase. In the Central Avenue stretch between San Pedro and Louisiana sits a tiny cafe mostly untrammeled by the foodie crowd for no good reason whatsoever. It’s called El Zarandeado, and at this shrine to pescetarians, the token menu options are for red meat rather than the other way around.
Begin quenching your thirst with one of the aguas frescas ($2.50). For the neophyte, aguas frescas are basically fruit juice in flavors you won’t find in grocery cartons – tamarind, guava and watermelon are some of the favorites. Step up for Ceviche Tostadas with shrimp and octopus ($4.99), refreshing like good sushi and, thanks to the lime juice marinade, it lacks sushi’s hard-to-love raw texture. Any meat fans at your table will appreciate the trio of Asada Tacos ($5.99) gently cradled in steaming corn tortillas just thick enough to not give way after a few bites, runny but rich refried beans on the side.
Habanero’s potent spice can be had in the classic shrimp dish Camarones A La Diabla ($10.99). Tightly curled butterfly-cut shrimp are doused in a rich orange sauce whose primary ingredients are butter and habanero chiles. An imposing pile of rice fills out the plate, but once you start spooning up the shrimp it’s difficult to take a break.
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El Zarandeado LOCATION: 6500 E. Central at California, 266-0143 HOURS: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily BEER AND WINE |
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The granddaddy entrée is big enough to share and served in a Molcajete, a thick stone cauldron preheated before filling to keep the contents bubbling long after it reaches the table. In the Sinaloense version ($18.99), you can’t beat the variety – three shrimp preparations, two filets of whitefish, imitation crab and medallions of octopus, all in a spicy green, salsa-based broth. If price seems daunting, consider that the amount of fish in that bowl is nearly a pound.
To assist with either the chile or temperature heat in these dishes you’ll be dipping into the basket of corn tortillas over and over again. Freshly pressed and steamed corn tortillas are light and fluffy yet considerably thicker than commercially made tortillas from a package. You owe it to yourself to have the real deal, and experience a difference as dramatic as having your first oozing pat of butter after years of margarine.
The night we visited the dining room was quiet, something I find unusual with this quality of food. It may have been an unusual evening, as I’ve driven by and seen the parking lot hopping quite a few times.
After all that, it could be easy to turn your back on the refrigerated case with dessert selections, but you may regret leaving without at least trying the Natilla de Canela ($2.99). Take a cup to go – it’s already packaged in cute lidded bowls – and enjoy as a late-evening snack. The custard is nearly crème brûlée thick but with a delicacy that will not overwhelm your palate, perfect attributes in any dessert in my book.
