Fall flavors rich at Cowgirl Oktoberfest

Take, for example, the Oktoberfest menu, one in a series of special menus the restaurant adds to its already lengthy bill of fare. The seasonal offerings include a tempting variety of sausages, robust German beer, wild-mushroom ravioli, green-chile dishes, fall-flavored salads and more.

Although Cowgirl is a casual place, exemplified by the short shorts worn by some of the female staff, they take food seriously and do it well. In addition, there’s live danceable music almost every night. You can eat on the patio and watch tourists trot by until it gets too cold. Then move to the covered porch or the inside dining room, which reminds me of eating in a memorabilia museum created by someone with a sense of humor. I like it.

	Cowgirl BBQ LOCATION: 319 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe, 505-982-2565 HOURS: 11 a.m.-midnight Mondays-Fridays; 10 a.m.-midnight Saturdays; 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays FULL BAR

Perhaps thanks to Albuquerque’s big balloon party, the restaurant was busy the night my friends and I stopped by. Our waitress did her best, and her cheerful attitude made it easier to overlook the service flaws. Service was willing and helpful if not always on the mark.

We began with a pair of appetizers (each $7) from the specials menu – wild mushroom ravioli and a chile relleno. These might seem like unconventional starters, and you can certainly order nachos or chicken wings if that’s to your liking.

But the ravioli get a standing ovation. The pasta was amazingly light and delicate, suited to the subtle flavor of the chopped mushrooms inside. Each ravioli was huge, as big as a dollar-size pancake. They came on a platform of fresh sautéed spinach surrounded by a moat of fresh tomato sauce with a little hot spice and some sweetness to it.

The relleno was totally different, redolent with the hearty flavors of the chile itself, salty, mild cheese and a layer of crisp nuts outside. The chile came with a spicy green-chile sauce. What a creative variation on the traditional New Mexican breaded and fried stuffed chile. I’m not exaggerating when I say that these Cowgirl appetizers were as good or better than what you pay twice as much for in a fancy white-tablecloth place.

The scallop entree ($15), another special, was creative, fresh and beautifully presented. Half a dozen or so scallops ringed the plate, standing guard over a golden pool of butter and apple cider sauce with a salad of arugula, apples, fried chopped shallots and candied pecans in the center.

The classic chicken-fried steak ($13.95) was dinner for two, served with tons of freshly made mashed potatoes and an ocean of cream gravy (that needed a bit more pepper). The beef, encased in batter and fried crisp, was fork tender. (You also can order a chicken version of this meal.) Instead of collard greens or calabacitas that came with it, my friend asked for asparagus, usually available at lunch. He got what he wanted, although the spears were a bit limp, probably from have been cooked earlier in the day.

Bravo to a versatile kitchen staff that can create those beautifully tender raviolis as well as this meat-and-potato meal in the western home-cooking tradition.

Speaking of meat, the Cowgirl long has been known for its delicious burgers served with a family-size portion of fresh hot fries. This month, meat eaters also can try a variety of sausages, as well as the regular selections of barbecued ribs or brisket, sirloin, T-bone and pork chops with an orange bourbon glaze.

The filet mignon ($22.95) was delicious, the flavor enhanced by a creamy mushroom sauce. It came with soft, thinly sliced scalloped potatoes and zucchini served with mixed bell peppers. The colors made the meal even prettier.

Speaking of beautiful, the red-skinned pears on the fall pear salad were winners, and would have been even better if allowed to soften a few days. The salad ($9) included greens and candied walnuts, blue cheese crumbles and a fresh, barely sweet raspberry vinaigrette. We tried a Mountain Man Bratwurst on the side ($7). This dense, nicely seasoned elk and venison sausage went well with the salad’s lightness, creating a great, filling meal.

Like the appetizers, desserts reflect good creative energy. The bananas foster ($6) arrived in a bowl with warm rum butter sauce, ice cream and whipped cream. The waitress lit it at the table and the blue flame softened the ice cream a bit before it extinguished itself. The profiteroles ($4.50) reminded me of cream puffs with ice cream inside instead of custard. They come two to an order, which makes them easy to share.