A touch of class, steaming and delicious

This small, casually elegant Japanese restaurant is more than a noodle house. The izakaya and kushiyaki, small plates that astutely have been called Japanese tapas, add another delicious dimension to the mix. Attentive and informed service enhances the experience. Shibumi is a winner.

When my friends and I walked through the front door, we were greeted by the owner/chef and by a symphony of tantalizing aromas. Most of the seating is at counters. The longer counter overlooks the kitchen with a view of the chef and his assistants fixing your meal – a free show. The second counter overlooks the bar and has a TV showing a Godzilla movie. But we arrived just as another party of four departed, and took their table.

	Shibumi Ramenya LOCATION: 26 Chapelle St., Santa Fe, 505-428-0077 HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Open for dinner only on Saturdays BEER AND WINE FRAGRANCE FREE, CASH ONLY

The waitress explained the menu and gave us her recommendations. Everything we sampled had a fresh, made-from-scratch flavor, and arrived beautifully presented.

The menu, which changes about once a month, features three categories, augmented with specials. The izakaya offers the most choices, with shareable options ranging from burdock pickles ($3) to spicy pork gyoza dumplings ($8.50) to grilled wild salmon ($12). The kushiyaki choices are food from the grill, from quail ($12) to something rarely seen on Japanese menus, potatoes. Then come the four soup choices, augmented by nightly specials. (This is Japanese food without sushi, available in all of Santa Fe’s other Japanese restaurants.)

Before our soup arrived, we sampled some of the small plates. The timing of the meal made our feasting all the more enjoyable, with time between the courses for a sigh and a smile. The superb barbecued pork belly with eggplant ($8) joins the list of food I would consider for my last meal. The pork, served on skewers, arrived sizzling hot, tender and seasoned so expertly that even a nonpork person might have liked it. The naturally sweet eggplant added an interesting change in texture.

The house smoked salmon croquette ($12) gets a standing ovation, too. The smoky flavor and overall lightness made my taste buds sing. The golden fish patty comes with a wonderful white slaw. We also loved the gyoza ($8.50), suntanned little dumplings packed with savory flavor, and the kabocha pumpkin ($6.50) served with green beans and a savory sesame walnut dressing.

The soups, fragrant and steaming hot, were another highlight. They arrive in beautiful ceramic bowls, red and black to go with the light broth of the pork soup, and earth-colors bowl to complement the golden broth of the curry soup. Shibumi’s simple wooden tables are set with black placemats, chop sticks and small ladles, ideal for enjoying the broth.

I enjoyed both soups we sampled, the shrimp curry with beautiful large pink shrimp and the Tonkotsu soup with slices of tender, juicy Kurobuta pork. If you like, you can customize by adding smoky white pepper, chile oil, soy sauce or a dry spice mixture with some picante to it.

We also had dessert, yuzu custard, a Japanese citrus. The waitress aptly described it as a bit of Japan and a touch of France. Fresh strawberries and blackberries actually form the heart of the dish, finished with a drizzle of fabulous yuzu curd and served over azuki, a sweet red bean paste.

There are some minor downsides at Shibumi. The restaurant’s dedicated parking is limited, although this time of year it’s easy to find a place on Johnson Street or nearby Grant Avenue. This may be the only full-service restaurant in town that takes only cash – no cards, no checks.

And some critics consider it overpriced. Is $14 too much for a bowl of soup? Considering that this soup can be a complete meal for one, perhaps even with leftovers, or enough for two with room for a few bites of something else on the menu, I don’t think so. Is an average of $8 too much for a small plate? Not compared to the appetizer, tapas or “first course” cost in most of Santa Fe’s other upscale restaurants. And at Shibumi, you’re paying for top-flight quality.

Without alcohol, our dinner for two was about $50. And positively memorable from start to finish.