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An old favorite serves all well for years

If you’re in the mood for a meal on a patio, give Santa Fe Bar and Grill a try.

Tucked away in DeVargas Center, this clean, welcoming, locally owned restaurant has become a favorite of Santa Fe residents, and a fine place to bring visitors. In a town where “patio” can mean a barren slab of concrete with some tables, Santa Fe Bar and Grill’s features a fountain, plenty of shade and healthy-looking plants. It’s a pleasant place to pretend you’re on vacation, at least for an hour or so.

Because the kitchen and service are both efficient, SFBG also attracts folks who have to work over lunch. On a recent visit, I ran into friends talking about a book deal, a pair of Realtors planning a campaign and a radio guy and his wife fueling up before a business trip to Las Cruces. I was lucky that day. My buddy and I arrived just in time to snag the last empty table. Because the restaurant is efficient, however, even if you have to wait for a spot the wait usually isn’t long.

Santa Fe Bar and Grill
LOCATION: 187 Paseo de Peralta (at DeVargas Center), Santa Fe, 505-982-3033
HOURS: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
FULL BAR

I’ve been eating at Santa Fe Bar and Grill for years, and I can truthfully say I’ve never had a bad meal here. You won’t find experimental art food or trendy micro greens or foam that tastes like salmon or rhubarb. You will find solid American classics, good New Mexican dishes, interesting salads and cold beer.

I recently tried the Mozzarella-Caprese Sandwich ($10.50) and enjoyed it. It’s basically the traditional Italian salad wrapped in a good bun. A thick slice of soft mozzarella, tomato slices, fresh basil leaves and tasty pesto arrive in a ciabatta roll, an Italian-style bun far superior to Bunny Bread. I liked the cucumber-tomato salad that came with it, too. At first I thought this dish might be too many tomatoes for one lunch, but the balsamic vinaigrette dressing on the salad changes it up nicely.

My friend enjoyed the Chimayó Chicken Sandwich ($9.50). Chicken breast can easily get dry, but this one was tasty, not overcooked. The mild roasted chile, slightly sweet caramelized onions, asadero cheese and chipotle mayonnaise worked well together. We agreed on “thumbs up.”

Speaking of sandwiches, the Galisteo Grilled Cheese sandwich, a longtime classic on the menu here, has remained for a reason. This has all the appeal of the classic grilled cheese, but using black bread adds a new dimension. The kitchen adds a slice of tomato, and you can improvise with bacon or, of course, green chile ($8.50 for the basic).

If you want something heartier, the Santa Fe Rotisserie Chicken ($10.50) is a good choice. The flavorful half-chicken comes with fries, vegetables and your choice of warm salsa or a lovely wild mushroom sauce. If I’m really hungry at dinner I like to start with flash-fried oysters and the crisp calamari appetizers to share, and move on to the barbecued ribs.

I like the salads here, too. When you think of shrimp salad, you might come up with a vision of tiny shrimp engulfed in mayonnaise with a bit of chopped celery and onion. Santa Fe Bar and Grill’s mayo-free version features big grilled Gulf pawns served warm atop a bed of greens enlivened with sweet mango slices, cherry tomatoes and avocado ($10.95). The steak salad ($10.95) is good, too. You can try a cup of the popular house tortilla soup or opt for the day’s special to go with your salad.

The New Mexican food passes muster, although the grilled fish or shrimp tacos and chile relleno with oyster mushrooms in the stuffing certainly did not arrive with the cooks who trudged along beside Oñate. My fave in this category? The vegetable blue corn enchiladas with mushrooms, squash and other goodies inside, service with green chile and a daub of sour cream.

As you’d expect from the name, Santa Fe Bar and Grill has a full bar, complete with the requisite TVs usually turned to sports. In addition to ample counter seating, the bar offers a few bancos and tables for a rendezvous with friends. There’s also a small private dining room for groups. Even though the restaurant is basically one large, attractive open room, noise is usually not a problem and service is friendly, informed and usually efficient. Parking is free and easy.


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