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Attitude, flavor combine to perfection

The New Mexico Po’Boy at Tia Betty Blue’s features carne adovada, jalapeños and Fritos. (Pat Vasquez-Cunningham/Journal)

Some restaurants set the stage for intrigue by their early advertisements or their graphic design, for better or for worse. I have eaten the food from diners that barely had a telephone book listing but could sling eggs like a truck stop veteran; conversely I have visited slick spaces with hip brochures that served up attitude with their mediocre food. Tia Betty Blue’s straddles the good side of both camps, showing in just a few months its food is worth more than just a nibble – fantastic modern New Mexican that’s affordable to boot.

The eastern edge of the Ridgecrest neighborhood (sometimes called “Fringecrest”) appreciates more than just ethnic joints and burrito shops, as evidenced by New Mexican fast-food newcomer Tia Betty Blue’s. Its aqua motif and logo combines a modern (and tattooed) Bettie Page style with “We Can Do It” strong woman appeal – holding a food tray instead of a drill. That’s exactly what the owners planned in their stand-alone building with a modest dining area, a large patio and a drive-through, serving convenience to nearby base or hospital workers. It puts its nearby customers’ commitment up front – each day of the week features 30 percent off meals to one group, from hospital workers or students to the military.

Inside smells primarily of fresh baked bread rotating in and out of the glass-paned oven, bringing back memories of sandwich shop hoagies and subs of my past. Tia Betty Blue’s, however, is my present, and the menu offers much in creativity.

Tia Betty Blue’s
LOCATION: 1248 San Mateo SE, north of Gibson, 268-1955
HOURS: 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays
NO ALCOHOL

Two key items you must choose between on your first visit (or share with a friend to try both) – are the New Mexico Po’ Boy ($6) and the Tamale Boat ($5.50). Similarities like Fritos and red chile aside, each is special and worth your attention. The former is a sub stuffed with carne adovada, Fritos, cheese and jalapeños. It is bizarre and delicious with the crunch of the chips.

The latter starts with Fritos, then tops the boat with grilled tamales, red chile, lettuce, tomato and onion.

If “hot and smothered” isn’t sounding like the best option on a 100-degree day, you’re covered with list of myriad sandwiches, ordered helpfully on the menu by the type of protein from chicken to vegetarian options. This is a fantastic way to sort any menu, rather than analyzing each and every item to figure out what meat you’ll be getting (or not). An odd inclusion for a New Mexican joint is a Tuna Niçoise ($6 sandwich, $7.50 as salad), tasty in execution regardless.

Oh, and breakfast is not to be overlooked, not when the “boats” are blue corn waffles, topped with anything from fruit and whipped cream to eggs and chile ($4.50). The waffles are about the size of a hot dog bun – perfectly sized, unlike many full Belgian waffles. Weekends might feature Waffle Boat Benedict, something worth a special trip in my near future.

No visit is complete without a trip to the soda cooler, sporting nearly 100 varieties of odd and small-label flavors from sarsaparilla to cucumber.


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