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A 12-ounce, bone-in rib-eye steak at Vintage 423 is served with blue cheese mashed potatoes and asparagus. (Marla Brose/Journal)
New and nondescript from the exterior, the eyes will need to adjust to the over-the-top décor and multiroomed interior of Vintage 423. From the waterfall wall and illuminated wine display to plush seating, it is intended to ooze luxury. Black-clad wait staff (men in slacks, women in significantly higher hemlines) deliver cocktails and skewered appetizers to patrons both worldly and hipster. We enjoyed friendly service from a coterie of staff, even while other details were slipping through the cracks.
Missteps started with the patio, a wonderful spot on a summer evening with shades to diffuse the sun’s heat. Attractive tables sport an unfortunate under-frame bumping the knees to keep the body a good 6 inches farther from the table than comfortable. Catching food in one’s lap is common. Leaning into our appetizers, the flavors started to shine with Deviled Eggs ($11) flavored with mustard and olive, a welcome change from the previous truffle oil version. The hype for Bacon-Wrapped Quail ($12) preceded our visit and is deserved for the crispy-wrapped, dark meat morsels on top of a spicy-sweet dipping sauce.
Entrées proved to be trickier, with a Filet Mignon ($30) cooked expertly in the 1,200-degree broiler and a Mahi Mahi ($27) violated with a crusty sear so salty it had to be picked off, revealing the dry and overcooked interior. Next time I’ll stick with the steak, also featuring the best side of the evening: blue cheese mashed potatoes faring better than Creamed Spinach ($7) overloaded with cheese and topped with charred breadcrumbs. Under the fish, plainly sautéed spinach was a welcome delight.
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Vintage 423 LOCATION: 8100 Paseo del Norte, Suite 1D, just east of Wyoming, 821-1918 HOURS: 11 a.m.-midnight Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays FULL BAR |
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Background music was a Top-40 compendium loud enough to periodically nudge into the foreground. It affected conversations and pure enjoyment of the meal. Delicious bites of steak were set to melodies about late-night hookups – not overly enticing. Service hiccups dotted the meal, from a glass of wine delivered halfway through the entrées to unmentioned specials (they exist but we never heard a peep).
Portions vary, with many landing squarely in the “enough for two” camp; some guidance from our server would have been helpful. This was never more apparent than in the dessert menu, where everything is $8. A delicately sized sorbet sampler contrasts against the fruit cobbler served with four spoons. With only two of us in attendance, we wondered if we should use one per hand to tackle the mountainous (and delicious) sweet ending.
Vintage 423 could be great with serious clamping down on details.
