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The Tesuque Village Market is an institution in the Santa Fe area. (Journal File)
Part bar, part general store, part bakery, Tesuque Village Market is a one-of-a-kind establishment, a place popular for its out-of-town location and ambience as much as the food. I’ve eaten here on and off for as long as I’ve lived in Santa Fe, but on a recent visit for dinner I was disappointed. To be fair, I came back for a second meal, which was better.
Initially, I visited the restaurant with three friends, two of them company from Houston who had only a few opportunities for restaurant meals in Santa Fe and, of course, many delicious options. I recommended Tesuque Village Market because after dinner we planned to head to Bandelier National Monument for its weekly night walk, a wonderful experience on the trail to the ruins in quiet darkness. Tesuque was sort of on the way.
On the plus side, we were seated promptly and given menus and water. The evening was warm and the air-conditioned indoor dining space in the market’s back room felt great. But then, one friend had to wait 10 minutes for his soft drink, served in can, while the rest of us drank our water.
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Tesuque Village Market LOCATION: Tesuque Village Road No. 138, Tesuque, 505-988-8848 HOURS: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily FULL BAR |
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The bigger problem, however, was the chile. My friends ordered New Mexican dishes, enchiladas with green chile and a burrito with red chile. I noticed that they nibbled around the edges rather than diving in. They were too polite to complain, so I asked for a taste. Wow! This chile had sear-your-taste-buds heat.
If it had been my dinner, I would have sent it back or at least asked for some sour cream to cool the flames. Instead, they suffered through, eating what they could of the filling, avoiding the chile as much as possible, and suggesting we eat somewhere else next time. The waitress should have warned us with, “The chile is extra spicy today.” Better yet, the chef should have started over.
Because of this unfortunate experience, a different set of friends and I returned a few days later for breakfast. This time we sat outside and had a different server. The restaurant was packed, every seat full and people waiting for tables. Before we ordered, we inquired about the chile, mentioning our miserable previous experience. The waiter recalled that batch of liquid fire and reassured us that the current offering was edible.
This time we tried the chile on Huevos Rancheros. It was much better, still spicy but now in a good way. The eggs came atop blue corn tortillas, covered with sauce and finished with melted cheese. Fresh pinto beans and crisp potatoes that were a bit too salty finished the presentation ($11). One of my friends ordered his eggs “sunny and runny” and the restaurant managed this without flaw.
The highlight of breakfast was Holey Toast, a comforting old-fashioned dish you don’t find on many Santa Fe menus. In a well created in a thick piece of fresh, soft, toasted brioche, the chef nestled a pair of fried eggs and a bit of roasted red pepper. The result? A treat that looked as good as it tasted ($12).
The blue corn pancakes ($10) were drier than average, but the serving generous. The fruit bowl ($10) was plenty for sharing, a healthful selection of juicy cantaloupe, watermelon, honeydew, strawberries and blueberries. The freshly squeezed orange juice ($5) was excellent and the coffee hot and fresh, although we had trouble getting the server’s attention for refills.
The breakfast menu also includes Eggs Benedict, a breakfast sandwich and a bagel with smoked salmon. You can add a pastry from the indoor display case for $4.
At dinner, while my friends struggled with the chile, I enjoyed the Southwest Salad, a mix of fresh greens, corn, black beans and tortilla strips. I also tried the pulled pork sandwich, meaty but too sweet for me. The fresh side salad was good.
The chicken, beef and pork served here are natural or organic and the eggs are organic. Choices recommended for children are marked with a star. The restaurant is known for its pizza baked on the deck in a wood-fired brick oven.
Tesuque Village Market draws hikers and mountain bike enthusiasts enjoying nearby trails as well as the Range Rover crowd. It’s a sweet location just outside Santa Fe at the end of a pretty drive out Bishop’s Lodge Road or a quicker one north on U.S. 84/285.
