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Using a cart, Bobby Joe Bonner Jr., assistant chef at Chile Rio, makes fresh guacamole for a table at the restaurant. (Marla Brose/Journal)
The shiny signs all along the “movie stretch” of the Interstate 25 corridor usually beckon diners to all manner of nationally branded chains from steakhouses to diners, with little in the way of local ownership.
However, the last several years have started to change the balance, little by little. First, a big Italian joint became a local seafood and steak spot, and just last month a former Texas barbecue spot (then nightclub) has given up the ghost to Dave Garduño, chef George Abeyta and their partners in a festive joint called Chile Rio.
If the name Garduño causes a ding-ding-ding of memory bells, you’d be on the right track. The aftermath of the financial implosion, bankruptcy and sale over at Garduño’s of Mexico back in 2010 left new management and cooks in charge of the remaining three New Mexico locations. Dave and members of the Garduño family were left wondering what was next. Using the skills of Chef George honed over four decades at the old Garduño’s to start a new dining destination – that’s what.
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Chile Rio LOCATION: 4811 W. Pan American Freeway NE, 341-8005, www.chilerio.com HOURS: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays FULL BAR |
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Many favorites from Abeyta’s history appear on this menu, such as guacamole ($9) made the only way I find devourable – table-side – and big plates of Smokin’ Fajitas ($15 for steak). Only one complaint could be fathomable about that delicious guacamole – after hearing we like it “really hot,” the resulting heat level was minimal. This did not prevent a rapid emptying of the serving bowl, chip after fresh chip.
As you might expect, the margaritas are expertly crafted in flavors from their Chile Rio Coconut made with coconut-infused tequila and pineapple all the way to my favorite, the classic Silver Coin rendition. Steer clear of the simple house margarita; our server revealed they are made from a sugary-sweet mix and their bargain price isn’t worth the loss of quality.
Regional Mexican specialties are creeping in to fill the menu and will soon be beloved, like a Cemita Sandwich ($9) stuffed with roasted chicken, mildly spicy chipotle cream, avocado and shredded Oaxacan cheese. Tradition dictates that the sesame bun should be eggy and almost sweet like brioche, but Chile Rio’s was just a toasted sesame seed burger bun. Daily specials are welcome to budget-oriented patrons.
Enchiladas stacked in the New Mexican way are as good as any place around, whether you choose blue corn or an egg on top or keep things simple with melted cheese. Frijoles charra on the side are tender and immersed in delicious cooking juices, while a familiar friend – the sweet corn cake – also joins the plate.
We rounded out a tour of the local specialties with a chile relleno full of gooey cheese but mild on the tongue. Soaking up the light sopaipillas with syrup left little room for dessert, but that night only two items were even available: tres leches cake and churros with ice cream. A few more temptations could have swayed our minds.
