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Veteran Albuquerque chef Salim Khoury, the owner of Flamez Burgers & More, holds a plate with a Wedge Salad Burger. (Adolphe Pierre-Louis/Journal)
Cutesy business names are fraught with danger; cleverness could score a few smiles from passersby, but risks the aversion of the serious customer. Flamez Burgers & More in the Northeast Heights nearly became that drive-by statistic for me – next door to a chain coffee outlet, the spot and its shiny new sign hinted at nothing, for better or for worse. Meals later, I can say that appearances and spelling creativity should not deter you from trying this tasty new gourmet burger destination.
After some research, relief sets in: This restaurant boasts none other than high-falutin’ chef Salim Khoury, formerly of Ranchers Club and Bien Shur. Crafting burgers isn’t what you’d normally expect from a four-star chef, but this is a recession, after all, and it’s hard to enjoy food from a restaurant too expensive for anyone’s budget or closed due to poor revenue.
Five Star, a local chain out of Taos, along with Holy Cow and a few others are part of the most recent gourmet burger joint renaissance in Albuquerque. Truth be told, it is easier to turn a profit with burgers and beer than with berries and baby spinach.
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Flamez Burgers & More LOCATION: 9821 Montgomery NE, 275-0522, FlamezABq.com HOURS: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays BEER AND WINE |
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Start off the meal with a beverage and a gander at the open kitchen before scanning the list of specialties. Sandwiches make up a sizeable menu section, in varieties from a Cuban to a Caprese Salad Sandwich. The sandwiches seem to hold court for diners who want variety, but really, what you want is a burger, whether beef ($8) or buffalo ($11) or any of the other options: falafel, lamb, salmon and turkey. Cheese and the traditional toppings are included, but additional toppings such as avocado or bacon will bump up the price a little.
Without much fanfare, Flamez also has love for the gluten-sensitive. Its Burger Saladz pair a patty with classics like the Wedge ($9) or a Chopped Salad ($9) or the Asian, complete with noodles and a turkey burger ($10). My only quibble stems from the stated 6-ounce salad patty size, while the conventional bun-wrapped preparation is touted to be a full 8 ounces. Not every salad eater is interested in a lesser hunk of meat.
Sides range from conventionally decent French fries and onion rings to grilled vegetables; the latter’s tender texture and tasty grill marks create a worthy addition to any meal at Flamez. Diners can sip on beer or wine – an underappreciated option that represents commitment and expenditure by the restaurant.
Perhaps that salad with the smaller patty left you just a bit of room. The staff have cooked up a few ending treats that sound brilliant on paper and taste nearly as good. Carrot cake bread pudding ($7) is perfectly crafted to win over anyone in its path: moist cake, butter pecan ice cream and cardamom sauce.
Another favorite is the deconstructed Apple Pie ($8), layers of apples, crust and caramel to cure any imbalance in your diet, including overconsumption of delicious burgers.
— This article appeared on page V12 of the Albuquerque Journal
