Wine country ambience. Savoy’s got it

In reality, seasonality of ingredients is the prime driver of recipes, while an atmosphere that feels breezy and light is a bonus. You’ll get all of that in the Northeast Heights at Savoy Bar & Grill, all without needing to buy a plane ticket west.

Savoy was started in 2006 by Keith and Kevin Roessler of both Seasons Rotisserie and Zinc Bistro fame; if any restaurant can make it from one side of the recession to the other, certainly it deserves acclaim.

By maintaining a delicious menu as well as offering tempting events from wine-tasting dinners to exclusive cigar bar networking in the lounge of bargain bar food, Savoy hits on all levels, for all diners.

Any meal is an excursion to sunny wine country, whether you fancy oysters on the half-shell ($2.50 each) or tart cranberry chutney paired with baked local goat cheese. Don’t fear the left-coast implication of that ingredient – your taste buds will win any argument after tasting the tangy round from Estancia’s Old Windmill Dairy. With a bowl of autumnal Squash Bisque ($6), the feast is just warming up.

Dinner entrees range from roasted chicken to classic red meat manifestos like prime rib or filet mignon. I’d go all in and order the Braised Colorado Lamb Shank ($26) and let my inner cavewoman peek out, picking the tender meat off the bone and sopping up vegetables with the meat juices. Lamb is a filling entree, so lighter appetites would be sated with Seared Ahi Tuna ($26) or Vegetable Napoleon ($20).

While several dishes have been longtime menu staples (though accompaniments may have shifted over the years), new to me this fall was the Pulled Pork & Sweet Potato Relleno ($9) on the appetizer list. It is every bit as good as it sounds, if slightly spare on the pulled pork. I’d order a few oysters, a salad and this as my entree and be on my way for under $25, a bargain in any economic market.

	Savoy Bar & Grill LOCATION: 10601 Montgomery NE, 294-9463, www.savoyabq.com HOURS: Lunch/brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays-Fridays; dinner 5-10 p.m. daily FULL BAR

The Roesslers would surely scowl if I fail to mention the superb wine list, fit for pairing with any dish and suitable to any wine-drinker’s palate and budget.

Wine neophytes should ask for a recommendation from your server, or attend Savoy’s periodic Saturday tasting meals, each with a wine theme. Evenings in the Heights are gussied up by a visit to the lounge where the bar menu is inventive and reasonably priced.

This fall it seems I am on the crème brûlée tour of Albuquerque, and it is fitting to start with Savoy’s dish of sugar shards and custard ($7). This fine example of eggy sweetness, rich custard, vanilla bean specks and, of course, sugar brûlée in deep amber is the stuff of which dreams are made.

Next time I intend to try the Apple Crumble Cheesecake, but who am I kidding?