International Flair

To look at the name of the new North Valley restaurant that is in the old Johndi’s barbeque site on Rio Grande NW, one would immediately think it’s another place serving New Mexican cuisine.

But Paco’s is anything but.

Chef Paco Aceves, who owns the restaurant along with his wife, Brandi Aceves, and partner Sue Heistermann, is bringing something different to the palate.

	Paco’s International Smoked Cuisine Where: 3851 Rio Grande NW (southwest corner of Rio Grande and Griegos) Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 5-9 p.m. (Closed week of Christmas, but open New Year’s Eve) Website and telephone: www.pacosabq.com and 345-3354

Aceves, a St. Pius High School graduate who attended the culinary arts program at the old Albuquerque Technical-Vocational Institute, is bringing an international flair to his cuisine.

“I really enjoy traveling, and Mediterranean food,” he said. “One of the biggest things I wanted to do was bring all that and tie into the whole barbecue thing since that’s what the place was known for before.”

But it’s not the type of barbecue one would normally find, Aceves said.

“I wanted to capture that whole smoke essence thing and apply my culinary knowledge to it,” said Aceves, who honed his talent at the Houston Country Club and also studied at one of the leading secondary culinary arts schools, Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

This is his first attempt at owning his own restaurant, but he is confident of success despite the uncertain economy.

“It’s very challenging,” Aceves said. “We’ve actually had to acquire a third partner (Heistermann). Finding a funding source, getting a loan for the restaurant was nonexistent. We have a great support with family and friends and picked up a third.”

So costs are kept down by being open just for dinner for now, although when the weather warms up and the restaurant becomes more established, Aceves said he plans to open the patio for lunch patrons.

Entrees range from the Pulled Cuban Pork Medallion with Sweet Chili Pineapple Salsa for $14 to Grilled Salmon, Olive Gremolata and Smoked Tomatoes for $19 and KC Strip Steak with Smoked Mushroom Ragout for $25. The prices include tax.

And one of the dessert specialties is a campfire s’more, with a brown-sugar caramel glaze drizzled over the traditional graham cracker and marshmallow concoction.

The restaurant also plans to begin catering service at some point, as Heistermann owned and operated a successful hors d’oeuvre catering business in Denver.
— This article appeared on page 20 of the Albuquerque Journal