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Lawrence Padilla, a waiter at Sadie’s at the Star, is seen with a variety of New Mexican classic dishes. (Adolphe Pierre-Louis/Journal)
Nothing hits the spot when the thermometer dips into the blue numbers like copious amounts of warm spicy food. New Mexicans are lucky in that regard – our native cuisine is replete with comfort foods that warm the belly two ways. Merely hot food on a plate isn’t enough for us – we need chemical spice to meet our expectations. I can think of few better spots for this adventure than local institution Sadie’s; its new outpost is tucked way back in the Santa Ana Star Casino north of town, perfect for a holiday outing with friends or family.
Walking through the casino to get to the restaurant is an exercise in sensory overload, but it ends quickly, and the tucked-away space is actually not bad. The décor is somewhere between cozy and “hotel-ish,” the latter owing in large part to the atrocious carpeting. Noise levels are remarkably low unless there are boisterous dining parties, always a consideration in the holiday season. Chips and that oh-so-addictive salsa are deployed within moments – you’ll need some sustenance as the bar orders can be on the slow side.
Whether a party of two or 22, the food comes out quickly and with all the accouterments we expect: sopaipillas, chile on the side for the timid, extra tortillas hot and chewy. I cannot stress enough the perfection of a bowl of red ($5.25) with extra carne adovada ($7.99). My mouth tingles while the meat falls apart with each bite in this delicious magenta pool. When coaxed out of my rut, I will order the unique Huevos Rancheros ($8.99) with the Sadie’s twist of cooking the eggs into an onion-studded omelet instead of “your way.”
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Sadie’s at the Star LOCATION: 54 Jemez Canyon Dam Road in Bernalillo (inside Santa Ana Star Casino), 771-7140, www.sadiesofnewmexico.com HOURS: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays FULL BAR |
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Enchiladas ($9.99) prepared simply are one of the menu items without a Sadie’s reinterpretation, melding tortillas to cheese to chile in a pile that begs for a takeout container at first glance. I like Sadie’s chile because it never veers on the safe side of spicy; the heat level of both red and green are enough to bring a smile to any local’s face while generating tales of painful excitement for later recounting by visitors.
Weeks of holiday eating might leave one looking for a lighter option – I’d recommend taking a gander at the a la carte menu where the portions are just as hearty but without over-the-top sides of rice and beans that, while delicious, serve to distract from the main course. A single tamale ($6.15) smothered in cheese and chile is the perfect size – chips and salsa to start, sopaipilla to finish and there’s your meal.
Ultimately, I still prefer the Fourth Street location for general ambience – the sunken dining areas, the din of waiting parties, the efficient yet harried servers – but those crowds can drive any hungry person to desperate acts, such as driving to Bernalillo.
Enjoy the quiet as you step back outside, gazing at the frosted Sandias and puffing little clouds on the walk back to the car. Cheers to Sadie’s for branching out and giving its fans options all over town, and keeping the quality exactly as we all have loved for years.
