Cookin’ up some lovin’

“Comfort me with something,” say all of us in this winter of unseasonably cold temperatures. We are blessed to be in the state where fiery chile is served at all meals of the day, any time we desire, all year long. However, even life-long native New Mexicans can admit that once in a while the belly just wants some nonspicy American classics to spoon up and enjoy: Comfort food.

By definition, comfort foods are like a warm blanket, ready to soothe (or possibly prepare one for a nap). The dishes tend to be tender and rich, served warm. Classics like macaroni and cheese, meatloaf, mashed potatoes and gravy — each and every one probably loaded with memories from family meals.

If you grew up around family who never prepared mashed potatoes and gravy, you still might have expectations built by seeing those meals on television or in movies with the dad carving a huge turkey at Thanksgiving. Few of us can escape those images, nor would we want to.

	Spots serving tempting fixings All over the metropolitan area are drool-worthy examples of comfort food, at spots both traditional and unexpected. Here are a few additional mentions to whet your appetite: Route 66 Malt Shop — some darn fine meatloaf served up on a plate or in a hot sandwich, milkshakes of envy. 3800 E. Central, 242-7866 Monte Carlo Steakhouse — prime rib worth every molecule of horseradish and au jus. 3916 W. Central, 831-2444 Flying Star Café — practically the standard-bearer for local comfort food with cheese-smothered platters and some of the most deliciously decadent desserts in town. Eight locations in town, see them all here: www.flyingstarcafe.com/locations Nexus Brewery — comfort foods from the South: fried chicken, gumbo, and dirty rice. 4730 Pan American Freeway East, 242-4100

Meatloaf has got to be one of the worst names I’ve ever encountered for a delicious food. I propose a formal change to the name to something enticing — say, Beefbake or Savoryslice. Perhaps the informal name allows it to continue to fly under the radar, appreciated by a small but dedicated crowd. You won’t find much better “Beefbake” than at our local legend The Range Cafe, at any location in town. The thin slab of fork-tender meatloaf is topped with a veritable fountain of brown gravy that spills over on to mashed potatoes and a pile of seasonal veggies.

While you are visiting this busy haven of comfort, make sure you take time for the hand-battered Chicken-Fried Steak with white gravy. Feeling crazy? Have white gravy with the meatloaf or brown gravy with the chicken — your eyes might be confused but your taste buds will rejoice in the novelty. Tablemates that opted for a lighter entree may still have room for a fabulous comforting dessert, from pies to gooey bread pudding.

Now it’s true that many of these long-established places have a number of good and hearty dishes that regulars order this time of year.

At Murphy’s Mule Barn on North Second Street, orders of Fish & Chips fly out of the kitchen with regularity — even more so on Fridays during Lent.

But many folks know Murphy’s for one unmistakable plate: the Chicken-Fried Steak. Pounded so thin there’s barely room for steak between the top and bottom layers of crunchy breading, it is served in a round the size of a hubcap. Those who think I’m exaggerating, go see for yourself, and order a to-go box the moment you lay eyes on the plate (or bring your whole family).

Near the University of New Mexico, the meats are smoky and the atmosphere noisy, but there are certain things that can’t be missed at The Cube BBQ, starting with the macaroni and cheese. It comes as a side option with many meals but the five cheeses could occupy their own food pyramid; you could make a nice meal by ordering it all alone and mixing in a side order of brisket, with or without the spicy barbecue sauce.

And yet, there is a more important reason to visit The Cube: sweet potatoes. Several restaurants in town make good mac & cheese, but rarer still are the purveyors of the sweet potato. The Cube serves the orange gems mashed, candied or baked into the best pie in all of Albuquerque. While their BBQ meat is quite good, there’s more than enough food with a plate composed of mac & cheese, candied sweet potatoes, and a bowl of smoky pinto beans.

Further along Central Avenue we’ll visit another house of heartiness: Mannies Family Restaurant, where the food is simple yet worthy of praise by any home cook. Without breakfast, your tour of Mannies is not complete, from fat pancakes to biscuits and gravy, and a never-ending cup of coffee refilled by a wonderful waitress named Laverne.

Lunch and later hours reveal Mannies love of sandwiches; don’t miss the open-faced beef or turkey smothered in gravy. This is where you break out the fork and knife and tuck in as the gravy melds with the bread into savory soft bites.

Any way you cut it, comfort foods are designed to cater to our inner kid just in from a day of sledding, needing some warmth and sustenance before another day begins. Enjoy the comforts, and enjoy the post-meal nap.