Try zesty, fresh fish, molé and more

Hearty, warm, comforting – these are descriptive words too frequently associated with Mexican foods, from tacos to casseroles to meaty things augmented with beans and sauce. Now, pull out any kind of world map – on a browser or smart phone is OK, too – and take a peek at Mexico with fresh eyes. Oh, that coast! Thousands of miles of coast and far less inland that, say, our fair country. With that in mind, think fresh and zesty and you’ll be in the mood for some of the best dishes on the menu Cielito Lindo.

This dining destination is on the site of the former Lindo Mexico (since moved to Central near Louisiana). Cielito translates to “sweetie” or “darling” while Lindo is “beautiful,” making a touching and intimate name “beautiful darling.” It’s also the name of a song considered Mexico’s second national anthem, and the festive dining room is packed with wall art both folksy and tequila-oriented.

The menu shares some favorites from the old restaurant, but has pared down the overwhelming options, as well as some of the prices – bucking the recent trend for prices to just go up and up. If the portions became smaller to match, you’d be hard-pressed to notice as your belly filled with each bite. Go ahead and start with some perfect Guacamole ($1.95) and orange-hued salsa for the basket of chips. I love a restaurant that is not shy in their avocado adoration, and this guacamole proves Cielito Lindo’s intent.

Queso Fundido has many fans in the United States but the puddle of cheese and greasy chorizo never seems to impress. So I’d instead choose a Tostada Camarón ($4.95) to enjoy tangy shrimp in a pileup with jalapeños, onions and cucumber on top of the guacamole-smeared tostada. Whether you order it with shrimp or whitefish, it is amazing.

A quick menu diversion inland will prove fruitful with a potently sweet Molé Poblano ($6.50) enrobing the chicken quarter, accompanied by thick and smoky refried beans. Taco plates are on offer, as well as enchiladas or steaks, but the fish options are plentiful and worth consideration.

Mojarra Frita ($12.50) is the no-holds-barred dish: a whole fried fish ready for your fork and careful excavation. Camarónes ($12.25) are the choose-your-own-flavor shrimp plates fit for any taste craving, from extra-spicy (A la diabla) to garlicky (Al mojo de ajo). Tame any flames with sips of a cool beverage, but skip the watery horchata – there are better versions all over town.

	Cielito Lindo LOCATION: 416 San Pedro SE (north of Zuni), 266-1800, www.cielitolindoabq.com HOURS: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 8:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays BEER AND WINE

Beyond Cielito Lindo’s delicious main courses is breakfast – served earlier in the day – and a bevy of soups that are fitting for these last bursts of wintery weather. I am a bit of a menudo connoisseur but on a recent visit was seduced by Sopa Azteca ($7.55), a tortilla soup fit for a tomato-loving queen. The huge bowl’s chile-flecked broth was studded with avocado and handfuls of tortilla strips, wilting as they soaked up juice to become corn-flavored noodles. If you like crunch throughout, order the tortillas on the side to add as needed. As strange as it may sound, corn noodles are a weirdly tasty concept worth trying – at least once, anyway.