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Prime rib is a menu specialty at the Town House Dining Room. (Jim Thompson/Journal)
Albuquerque’s restaurant scene continues a decade-long evolution with cutting-edge spots like last week’s visit to late-night gourmet food haven The Last Call. However, you must look back more than a half-century to see the foundation of our city’s cuisine in hybrid places I’ll call “Greek steakhouses,” where prime rib shares menu space with feta cheese.
This niche is where the Town House Dining Room has reclaimed membership after a five-year hiatus, re-opening in early 2012 at a new location – beloved and iconic fiberglass steer once again marking the spot.
Original owner George Argyres closed the Nob Hill Town House in 2007 after lease issues, leaving the family’s restaurant future up in the air. Longtime fans lamented then rejoiced when George’s son, Dino, announced the rebirth – steer and all – in late 2011.
The only change is the venue; each recipe has been lovingly recreated in the new kitchen by seasoned hands, starting with perfect Dolmas ($13 with Antipasto Platter) bound in their grape leaves, holding none of the typical soggy rice mush of other dolmas around town. That platter aims for – and achieves – table-wide satisfaction with imported feta, olives, salami, garlic dip and fish roe spread.
After a Greek starter, it’s proper to delve back into classic Americana and order a hearty cut of meat for one’s entree. The house specialties, listed as “from the broiler,” should start with Prime Rib ($24) for any fans of juicy beef. The lean nature of a prime rib cut requires a lesser doneness to maintain flavor and is augmented by horseradish and au jus. One shortcoming is the concave platter used to serve all broiled dishes – good for holding juices, awkward for any sort of cutting.
Fans of red meat that doesn’t ooze red cooking juices should try the Char Burger ($12), a fat patty stuffed with a cheese blend that nearly gushes out when cut. The side of delicious French fries more than compensates for the burger’s bunless presentation.
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Town House Dining Room LOCATION: 9018 E. Central (between Wyoming and Zuni), 255-0057, thenewtownhouse.comcastbiz.net HOURS: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, closed Sundays BEER AND WINE |
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Fish lovers need not worry with the Argyres in the kitchen; a broiled Trout Filet ($14) is simple yet satisfying as long as you watch for bones. With most entrees, the only side to order is oven-roasted Greek potatoes, delivered as seasoned chunks with flavorful skin intact.
Completing the bridge from Greece to our land-locked state is an entree for the hungry: Lamb Chops ($31) served four to an order with a side of mint sauce (best ignored). Picture a typical T-bone steak – miniaturize it by three-quarters and that’s what these chops are all about. Order this specialty medium-rare to ensure maximum tenderness – each chop is small and easy to overcook. As you gnaw on the remnants it will be easy to overlook the side of steamed vegetables that came with each entree – they, like the starter salads, are distractions only appreciated by the famished.
Town House has some shortcomings like many old-school steakhouses, but it finds some last-minute joy when you order the house-made Baklava ($7.50) to finish the meal. It packs the richness of a truffle in a size you’ll swear you could never finish – until you do. It’s quite wonderful bottom to crispy top with candied orange peel.
