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Paulette Baros holds up the baja tacos entree at Sophia’s Place. (Pat Vasquez-Cunningham/Journal)
On a recent brunch outing to Sophia’s Place in the North Valley, I couldn’t get a sing-along moment inspired by the classic film “The Sound of Music” out of my head: “How do you solve a problem like Sophia?”
When Sophia’s opened 10 years ago there were immediate issues, the first coming from diners expecting to find the previous occupant, Fajitaville. Within a year, it seemed the only remaining issue was a mismatch between the delicious food and lack of ample dining space. Some problem to have! After more than a decade, Sophia’s Place is still every good thing you’ve already experienced and more.
Proving that success is in refinement of well-executed details, little has changed at Sophia’s. Over the years the dining space has shifted slightly in décor, from walls of pale yellow to blue and green, with adornments of fine art, crafts and printed materials. The small tables remain, as does the counter manned by staff so friendly you wonder how many cups of joy are required before beginning work each day. From a kitchen no larger than an SUV, flavors so complex and gratifying cannot help but spill over the room, even for simple dishes like burgers, enchiladas and pancakes.
Sophia’s Place is Dennis Apodaca’s flagship restaurant; it has not lost one bit of culinary standards that drew in both local crowds and national media juggernauts. Ezra’s Place down the street boasts similar gourmet credentials but the bowling alley venue can be a bit distracting.
At Sophia’s Place, the dining room is cozy – barely 20 feet square – and full of regular patrons sipping coffee or patiently enduring the kitchen aromas as they wait for their food. Come as you are, come when you want – the regular menu is available most of the time, with specials dotted throughout the day and week. Be prepared for a moderate yet worthwhile wait during peak lunch hours and weekend brunches.
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Sophia’s Place LOCATION: 6313 Fourth NW, south of Osuna, 345-3935 HOURS: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays NO ALCOHOL |
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Weekday breakfast hours are the ideal time for respite away from the thick crowds; with an inky black coffee and an Omelet ($9.50) stuffed with sautéed veggies your happiness quotient should bump up a few notches. Feeling a bit of enchilada-fatigue? Watch the specials menu for Chilaquiles ($8), just different enough to break through the rut. They begin with chopped fresh corn tortillas that submit to a pan-fry with chile before a topping with eggs and cheese, sharing the plate with refried black beans. Showing Apodaca’s commitment to doing diner food one level higher, every plate is garnished with a lightly dressed salad of field greens.
Dinner is recently back on the schedule and is a perfect time for the justly famous duck confit in all its rich splendor. Whether you have it in soft tacos or stuffed into enchiladas, you’ll still taste the decadence and skill honed by decades of practice. Fish Tacos ($11) are still a menu staple and for good reason – fresh salsa garnish on the flaky white meat hits so many coastal notes you’ll check for sand between your toes. For all the fancy entrees, one still can’t go wrong with a Bacon Burger ($10) on a fresh bakery bun, cooked just as pink as you like it.
Now, it’s true that the Pumpkin Brownie ($4) is famous, but my new favorite is the Coconut Panna Cotta ($4), a light custard that seems to be composed of little more than coconut milk, sugar, and gelatin to set it. Restrained, delicious and well-executed – just what you’d expect from Sophia’s.
