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Thursday, October 08, 2009
Cube brings high-quality 'cue to the Q
By Andrea Lin
For the Journal
Nothing says confidence like the entrepreneurial spirit, specifically a new restaurant venture. Yet before the doors open, many details must be in place; delays are inevitable and must be managed successfully. Near UNM, The Cube leased a highly visible space and sported an "opening soon!" sign for months, leading to worry that opening day would not come. It finally did, and curious eaters started stopping by.
Now, more than a month after opening, The Cube is serving Memphis barbecue and specialty hot dogs to a relieved crowd of diners. The menu runs the gamut from a nearly out-of-place Caprese Salad ($6.95) to hearty sirloin burgers, and then of course to its regional techniques with smoking meat.
The Cube aims to be a casual eatery where you can have great food, and the casual is certainly evident. You order at the counter and have your food brought out. Tables are spaced well, but the interior is both cavernous and sparse, leading to a noise level not appropriate for soft conversation. Carpeting might help, but so far the food is what is keeping me coming back — and flavorful tea selections from the New Mexico Tea Company.
Barbecue plates include pulled pork, chicken or beef brisket ($9.95 for two meats). I'm typically fond of brisket, but The Cube's is not where it shines. Instead, it is the pulled pork that is a worthy indulgence. In a sandwich or simply piled on a plate with the smoky sauce or the extra hot sauce, the Southern talent of the cooks is apparent. Roasted chicken is a great alternative, with juicy meat and just enough seasoning.
Sides are plentiful and frustratingly diverse: mac & cheese, sweet potatoes in several preparations, mashed potatoes with gravy, baked beans and more. The smoky undertone in the beans is wonderful, and I am always a fan of sweet potatoes, which here are better than the plain mashed.
Chicago dogs are on the menu to tempt those who love neon green sport peppers, but I had to try the 505 Dog ($3.45), topped with avocado and green chile after a crispy spiral wrapping of bacon. It needed no condiments and disappeared quickly. Hungry diners can order a lunch special that includes two dogs and a drink — perfect for a budget.
Southerners love their sweets, so all desserts are made in house and tantalizingly displayed on the front counter to get you thinking right when you make your meal choices. Chocolate mousse ($5.25) is finely textured and a bit sweet, but feel free to overlook it for what just might be the best homestyle pie in town: sweet potato pie ($4.25). Everything about this delight is spot-on, from the potent seasonings in the filling to the crust that defies expectations, tasting of butter and separating into strong flaky layers. Do not miss this pie.
The Cube Restaurant
LOCATION: 1520 E. Central, 243-0023
HOURS: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
BEER and WINE
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