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Thursday, April 10, 2008
Gruet Does Decadence In A Light Way
By By Andrea Lin /
For the Journal
On a chilly evening, one of perhaps the last few this city will see for several months, you’re out having dinner with a close friend or intimate partner. A not-at-all-cheesy gas-powered fireplace is keeping the atmosphere cozy while you sink into a relaxed state, ready for the meal. You might picture this occurring at a posh hideaway in Santa Fe, but you’d be wrong only on the location — such delights are smack in the center of Nob Hill in a building oozing with local history.
Gruet Steak House took over the downstairs operation of the Monte Vista Fire Station three years ago, and immediately the kitchen showed its chops, making it one of the best destinations in town to get charred meat with refined service. After a bit of time and some normal turnover in the staff, I checked in to revisit the experience.
The patio out front is romantic and the weather nearly ready for al fresco dining, but we chose a small table inside to be closer to all of the hustle. A long dining room yawns into the deep, all earthy colors and simple décor, clean and elegant. Those words could have described much of our food that evening, and it all started with smoked salmon.
The appetizer ($9) came on a large plate, carpaccio style, and drizzled with lemon crème fraiche, green onions and the daintiest dab of black caviar. Allowing my companion the merest taste and waiting for the approving nod, my palate was quickly enrobed in the heady flavors. Despite the richness of each component, the lemon and herbs leave you feeling refreshed.
On its heels followed our salads, mine that old classic wedge of iceberg ($8), his the mixed greens ($7). In the end I preferred the greens, delicately dressed, spotted with honey almonds, apples, and dried cherries, and enough arugula to counter those sweet bits. My wedge was excess refined; dolloped with chunky blue cheese dressing in not-so-delicate amounts and of course garnished with bacon and tomatoes. As I knew the main course was still to come, it remained only partially eaten.
Both Gruet’s nameplate and reputation are forged on its steaks, yet the options for those who don’t eat beef are anything but humdrum or standardized.
We went for the 16-ounce New York Strip ($39) with a red wine reduction, though I would have preferred no sauce to interfere. Cooked exactly to order — I would expect nothing less here — the steak held its own under the dark sauce, bite after bite after bite.
Gruet’s signature dishes are interestingly not steaks, the Ahi Wellington being a personal favorite. This time I went for succulence in the Crackling Pork Shank ($21), and it proved formidable. Braised cabbage and apples on the side complemented every bit of the strangely delicate pork. Take a bite with your eyes closed and you might hesitate to name the animal, even while singing its praises for texture and juiciness. A shank is a large portion, so I felt no hesitation in taking some home, along with the majority of our only greenery — grilled asparagus with sunny bernaise. The skinniest of the green stalks were tender and well-charred, but the larger specimens suffered from crunchiness. Al dente is not a proper state in which to serve veggies, but opinions might differ.
For the finale we went for a Pumpkin Spice Cake ($9) and the classic Crème Brulee ($7).
Gruet Steak House HHH½
LOCATION: 3201 Central NE 256-9463
HOURS: 5-10 p.m. every day for dinner
WINE
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