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Thursday, December 17, 2009
Lucia a refined, subtle dining experience
By Andrea Lin
For the Journal
Albert Bilotti is a mainstay of the Albuquerque restaurant and chef scene, whether he's racking up accolades at his previous flagship, Kanome, or consulting with places as diverse as New York Pizza Department or Slate Street Café, even catering for film productions. Those who've missed his creations since Kanome closed in 2002 have reason to visit the former La Posada, recently re-opened as Hotel Andaluz, with Bilotti's restaurant Lucia front and center for three meals a day.
Venturing away from Asian fusion and into Mediterranean and Spanish, Lucia's menu still keeps the refinements you would expect from Bilotti. Dinners often start with an amuse bouche — an introductory nibble from the kitchen. Ours was a roasted potato-garlic spread with all flavor barrels blasting, even when tempered by the warm pita bread and fruity olive oil.
Admittedly the atmosphere caught me by surprise. It was sleek and modern yet cozy, even muffling the bulk of the holiday party noise just outside in the hotel's foyer. Our server poured water into stemless wine glasses while reserving the stemware for its proper purpose. Kudos to what I hope is a growing practice. She came back around as we decided starters and mains from a restrained menu, with only one vegetarian special of the evening to discuss.
Grilled Artichokes ($9) as a starter went over well. A golden caper sauce served as rich foil to the delicate hearts with just a bit of flavorful char, eaten on bread or simply spooned up. Lucia offers only one soup for good reason — Sopa de Poro ($6) is fantastic. Potatoes meet their match with lemon and manchego cheese in a comforting bowl.
Our salads were enjoyable but with one sticking point each. The Beet and Heirloom Tomato ($9.75) featured amazing roasted golden beets and tart dressing that had no business being on the plate with watery out-of-season tomato slices. The Field Greens ($7.25) hit closer to the mark with figs and candied walnuts yet simply not enough dressing — a rare problem indeed.
Minor quibbles aside, we were still thoroughly enjoying the experience. The industrious staff kept everything tidy and rolling along, for diners with full water glasses and only clean silverware feel pampered, no matter what the level of restaurant. Mains soon arrived to our table, visually stunning and aromatically decadent. Next to me is sprawled a Ribeye ($34), tender pink inside with dark crust for big flavor. The kitchen is enjoying its grill, as we've tasted a few dishes featuring blackened bits, yet none have tasted burnt.
Scallops and Sugared Shrimp ($24) was my choosing for several reasons. I love both, and they are easy to overcook. A deep tan sear on the scallops provided their bite, the interior tender without being rare. The skewered shrimp added more interest to the plate, but it was the sautéed mushrooms that triumphed in their grape reduction sauce. The elements sound like they would not work as a whole, but yet they did.
We finally ventured into the sweet, choosing the standard (Crème Brûlée, $7.25) and the innovative (Bizcochito Ice Cream Sandwich, $6.50) approaches. Flavorwise, the ice cream sandwich was excellent, but it actually would benefit from advance preparation. The cookie was too crunchy against the soft filling — one bite and everything slid out the back. But then, I've rarely had Crème Brûlée better than this thinly poured custard and its crunchy top, leaving only molecules behind with my spoon.
Lucia (in the Hotel Andaluz)
LOCATION: 125 Second NW, 923-9000
HOURS: 7-10:30 a.m., 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m. daily
FULL BAR
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