By By Anne Hillerman /
For the Journal
There’s a new French restaurant in Santa Fe already drawing crowds. Sometimes, too much popularity too soon can cause problems. In the case of Clafoutis, which opened about two months ago, the management deals with the onslaught with a gracious smile. I’ve eaten here three times recently and liked the good food and reasonable prices.
One of the best things about Clafoutis is the wonderful aroma of fresh-baked treats that greets you as you walk through the door. The front counter displays an abundance of bread — slim baguettes, plump country loaves and golden brown croissants as well as an enticing collection of tarts, Napoleons, chocolate concoctions and other temptations. You’ll find that day’s variation of the signature dessert, a clafoutis, or custardlike fresh fruit cobbler.
For breakfast, the egg croissant, a delicious bargain at $4.95, is an ample meal of a flaky fresh croissant bearing two scrambled eggs arranged on a slice of ham or strips of bacon, topped with melted cheese. I added green chile (50 cents) to this freshly made French sandwich. The owners were smart to offer that cross-cultural option.
The menu includes the traditional light French breakfast of bread and jam, and the classic American option of eggs and meat, but you can’t get toast or potatoes here for breakfast. I tried to order a gauffre, a large waffle topped with powered sugar, fruit or Nutella, a hazelnut and chocolate spread. But the waffle iron was on the blink, so I moved on to crepes. I had the ham and cheese, and my friend tried the crepe with fruit of the day — three types of grapes, fresh sliced strawberries, powdered sugar and a drizzle of fruit syrup. Both made wonderful meals ($6.95).
A heartier option, the Omelette Provencale ($8.50), included tomatoes, garlic, herbs, olives, cheese and ham. The chef used commendable restraint with the tomatoes, making them just a whisper instead of the dominant flavor. The American breakfast and the omlettes come with a basket of fresh bread and butter. The coffee is good here, too. My Café Mocha was rich but not too sweet, with a gentle touch of chocolate. We also tried an almond croissant, topped with toasted almonds with a light almond paste inside ($2.50). The chocolate croissants looked mighty, mighty good.
When a friend and I tried Clafoutis for lunch, we had to wait a bit for our waitress to clear a table for us. We arrived after 2 but the place was still busy. We settled in with bottles of Dr. Brown’s boutique root beer ($1.95) and a French orange lemonade ($2.90). Then came a cup of rich, long-simmered French onion soup with melted cheese in every bite ($2.75).
Like breakfast, lunch choices are straightforward: quiche, hot and cold sandwiches and salads. I had one of Les Cogettes, a French version of a box lunch ($12.50) with a piece of rolled ham, a large rectangle of pate, a dollop of excellent robust mustard, a wedge of hard cheese, tiny pickles called cornichons, pickled onions and bread. I loved the beautiful salad with radishes, carrots, tomato, yellow peppers and fresh greens in a refreshing vinaigrette. The box even included the dessert of the day, in my case a brownie with walnuts on top.
My friend tried the Sandwiche Cubain ($7.50), a generous feast of grilled ham, grilled pork, Swiss cheese, tomatoes, and lettuce served warm on a fresh whole baguette. The homemade potato chips were a good idea but overcooked.
Service begins with a gracious bonjour. The attitude of the staff encourages you to relax and enjoy the light that comes in from the windows and the buzz of conversation that fills the room. Parking can be a challenge, with a limited number of spots in front and behind the building. Don’t let that deter you. Walking is one way the French manage to eat all this wonderful buttery food and keep their slim figures.
Owners Anne-Laure Ligier and her husband, Philippe, came to Santa Fe after six years at Le French Corner in Albuquerque and a return to their native France. They’ve found a niche in the city’s crowded restaurant scene.
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