Saturday, January 20, 2001
Car Clinic: Bad Mounts Could Cause Gear Change
Journal Staff Report
DEAR CAR CLINIC: I have a 1994 Ford Escort that slips into "false neutral" between 1st and 2nd gear only when turning left under acceleration. It is fine going straight or turning right. I had the transmission fluid changed, and now it seems to be worse. Any ideas?
B.N.M.
AlbuquerqueDEAR B.N.M.: Your problem could be caused by bad motor mounts. Motor mounts hold the engine and transaxle in their frame "cradle." While running, the engine "torques," or twists, and moves around a lot, more so in one direction than the other. If the mounts are bad, loose or broken the engine could move enough to pull on the linkage and move it to neutral.
Here's a way to test this. First, shift into low or second (I'm assuming it's an automatic) and drive around a bit. If the neutral problem disappears, get a helper and prop the hood open. Have the helper stand by the side of the fender and watch the engine as you step on the brake with your left foot. Shift into gear and tap the accelerator momentarily. If the engine jumps or moves more than an inch or so inspect the motor mounts and replace any that are broken or damaged. Jim Maddox, Jim's Automotive Inc., AlbuquerqueDEAR CAR CLINIC: In September 1998 I purchased a 1987 Buick LeSabre with 33,000 miles. It now has 65,000 miles. About six months ago it began dying suddenly. The engine would just shut down but would restart almost immediately.
There is no pattern to the problem. It happens at 35 mph or at 65 mph. It may happen once a week or twice a day.
A local mechanic checked the computer which showed no problem codes. He said it would have to occur while driving it with a test unit hooked up. He drove it as much as he could, and sure enough, the problem would not occur.
Same thing at a local dealer. They replaced the fuel pump but wouldn't guarantee that it would solve the problem. It didn't. They did find a poor connection at a terminal near the battery, but the car quit again after they tightened the connection.
It makes for very interesting driving, not knowing when the car might quit on me. Any suggestions short of buying another car?
D.W.
AlbuquerqueDEAR D.W.: You most likely have a DIS (distributorless ignition system) problem. Unfortunately the car will have to act up while hooked to diagnostic equipment to tell for sure.
There are lots of things that will cause the car to die, but not many of them will occur while driving at steady speeds.
A failing fuel pump will almost always let you know there is a problem when you are climbing a hill or passing somebody. And when it fails to the point that the car dies it will almost always take several minutes or even hours before it will restart, if at all.
Ignition system failures will act just as you described. There are three major parts that control this system: the ignition coils, the ignition module and the crankshaft position sensor. It is not uncommon for all three to be bad and need replacing because any one of the three can cause the others to go bad.
This is not an impossible problem to diagnose, but in this case I don't recommend a dealership. Dealerships generally work on much newer vehicles, and chances are it will have been so long since they've seen a system like yours they might have trouble finding the problem. Go to the Yellow Pages and look for a shop that deals with computer-control systems and diagnosis of electrical problems.
This car may have a few years under its belt, but it probably still has many good miles left in it. If you have trouble finding the right shop call me at (505) 843-9689, and I may be able to help you find a good one. Rick Jones, Hot Rod Haven, Albuquerque
Answers in this column are provided by Albuquerque-area automotive service shops. Got a question about your car, truck, van or RV? Describe your problem (please be brief!) and fax it to (505) 823-3994 or mail it to Car Clinic, Albuquerque Journal, P.O. Drawer J, Albuquerque, NM 87103.
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