Delivery alert

There may be an issue with the delivery of your newspaper. This alert will expire at NaN. Click here for more info.

Recover password

Bosque Brewing’s green chile cheeseburger as good as it gets

Forget the whole state; Albuquerque needs to claim the title as the rightful birthplace of the green chile cheeseburger.

The green chile cheeseburger at Bosque Brewing Co. is served with green chile, Muenster cheese and bacon, all on a kaiser roll. (Jason K. Watkins/For The Journal)

I can count a dozen green chile cheeseburgers off the top of my head that could credibly claim the title of best in town, without even venturing into fast food. And I just found another contender to add to the list.

The green chile cheeseburger ($12) at Bosque Brewing Co. in Northeast Albuquerque is as good as any other in town, if not better, starting with the patty: The restaurant says the beef is “Kobe-style,” which means it is from wagyu cattle. What matters is that the beef is USDA prime with a perfect amount of fat and cooked to medium-medium rare.

The beef Bosque serves is raised right here in America and served exceptionally fresh, never frozen, so the patty is juicy and crumbly and still a little bloody, unless you request otherwise. The green chile is hot but not uncomfortably so. It’s paired with a fresh, slightly sharp Muenster cheese and some strips of fatty bacon, all on a fresh kaiser roll.

The cheese and charcuterie plate is served with an assortment of fresh cheeses, cured salamis and other meats, pickled garlic and onions and New Mexico piñon seeds covered in red chile and spices. (Jason K. Watkins/For The Journal)

I ordered the pommes frites (french fries, $5) as an appetizer, and the burger came with a salad I barely touched. It was great, made with mixed greens and totally fresh, but I was surrounded by too many carbs to worry about a salad. The frites are thick and cut by hand, then smothered in garlic chunks, fresh sage and thyme, and paired with a tarragon-anchovy mayonnaise that will definitely get your attention. The anchovy flavor is impossible to miss, so if you’re sensitive to that sort of thing, stick with ketchup.

Service at this little strip-mall gem is very good and very fast, even on a Sunday and despite a Balloon Fiesta-packed house. Parking is fine, and the vibe is mostly locals and beer lovers (it’s a taphouse, after all). Another Bosque Brewing restaurant, in Nob Hill, serves a similar menu, and many liquor stores across the city carry a Bosque Brewing label or two.

Despite the pub feel, the place also knows how to button down: The cheese and charcuterie ($15) plate feels fancy compared with a bloody burger, and Bosque’s is put together well. Slices of baguette come with an assortment of fresh cheeses, cured salamis and other meats, pickled garlic and onions and some awesome New Mexico piñon seeds covered in red chile and spices.

Bosque Brewing has been steadfastly serving top-of-the-line microbrews, but it’s time to get better-acquainted with Bosque’s food offerings.

3 stars

TOP |