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On the side review: Mr. Powdrell’s Barbeque

The brisket plate at Mr. Powdrell’s Barbeque, served with coleslaw and cornbread pancakes. (Richard S. Dargan/For the Journal)

The late Pete Powdrell, Mr. Powdrell’s founder, drew inspiration for the menu from his roots in Texas and Louisiana.

You’ll find the brisket and sausages common to Texas barbecue, along with the catfish and po’boys of Louisiana. The combination has helped make Mr. Powdrell’s an institution in the city. Today there are three locations, including a new outlet at the Sawmill Market, and a thriving catering business.

The beef brisket dinner plate ($12.95) showcases Mr. Powdrell’s slow-cooking approach. The thin, falling-apart-tender slices of brisket piled on a paper tray were far superior to the brisket I’ve had at a couple of notable chains in the area. The sauce, vinegary, slightly sweet and with a burning finish, augments the meat well. It all goes great between quarters of the cornbread pancakes you get on the side.

Potato salad and a creamy, crunchy coleslaw, the customary barbecue sides, were excellent. I especially like the potato salad, with the spuds pulverized into very small pieces.

The half-chicken ($6.25) is served cut into three pieces and lacquered with barbecue sauce. The meat had a noticeable hickory-smoked flavor.

A half-pound portion of beef ribs ($8.50) includes three large ribs with craggy, molasses-colored surfaces.

A piece of sweet potato pie ($2.95) made an excellent finish to the meal.

11301 Central NE, 298-6766,