Copyright © 2020 Albuquerque Journal
In his 2020 book “American Taco,” José R. Ralat uses the Abuelita Principle to explain the quest for “authenticity” when it comes to tacos in the United States. Americans have a bad habit, Ralat says, of comparing every taco they try to the exemplary ones made by a dearly departed grandmother or a long-remembered Juárez hole in the wall.
But, really, every recipe evolves along with its environment. Even a taco as iconic to Mexico as al pastor was shaped by the influence of Middle Eastern immigrants.
It’s easier to embrace culinary adaptation, no matter what the cuisine, over any Abuelita Principles. And in Santa Fe, two food trucks – Fusion Tacos and Saya’s Frybread & Indian Tacos – are currently churning out a couple of perfectly delicious examples.