Complex carryout: Three Santa Fe restaurants excel at serving multicourse meals to go - Albuquerque Journal

Complex carryout: Three Santa Fe restaurants excel at serving multicourse meals to go

In 2020, necessity was the mother of invention in the restaurant world. In 2019, Santa Fe had never heard of curbside sushi at Kohnami or parking lot omelets from Dolina. But in the face of pandemic restrictions, a few local chefs are pulling out all the stops in the takeout game.

We’ve entered the era of the multicourse meal to go. I recently enjoyed some beauties from Paloma, Open Kitchen and Joseph’s Culinary Pub. Here’s how they work: Instead of choosing an appetizer, entree and desserts from a large menu, you order a curated experience of three or more courses from a chef who is most likely exclusively focusing on those preparations for the evening. These meals are carefully wrapped, boxed and bagged by restaurant staff.

The restaurants adopting this new model are using a mix of old-school culinary wisdom – thinking more than ever in terms of seasonality, volume and economy – and technological savvy. With social media advertising and online ordering, diners can place orders several days in advance, which gives chefs time to allocate resources and plan for deliveries or pickups. It also gives the customer – with cupboards full of dried beans, pasta and stalled-out sourdough starter – something delicious to anticipate.

Even with a tip of 20% or more on these elaborate takeout dinners, customers are coming out the winners in terms of price and value. I recently enjoyed a three-course solo dinner from Paloma for $35 (plus tip). That’s a low, low price I’ve never paid even on a split check when dining in owner Marja Martin’s vibrant interior or on the bright, cheery patio at Paloma.

The South Guadalupe Street mainstay pivoted to what they call “Paloma Supper” in early December, advertising a new weekly menu for Fridays and Saturdays, along with “take-and-bake” enchilada trays and such extras as chips, guacamole and queso.

I pulled up 15 minutes late to Paloma for my allotted pickup time, greeted by a surprisingly cheery staff member who slid a carefully packed paper bag into my passenger seat. At home, I unpacked the still-warm containers. I started with a creamy potato-leek soup with a hint of roasted poblano flavor, made smokier by the addition of separately packed bacon bits and morita chile oil. Immediately, I was basking in elevated comfort food, including flavors I wouldn’t normally find in my own kitchen.

Steak tampiquena with cilantro rice and rolled red chile-cheese enchilada from Paloma Restaurant, 401 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe. (Molly Boyle/For The Journal)

That mingled sense of familiarity and discovery continued with an 8-ounce steak a la Tampiqueña: a skirt steak marinated and grilled with multicolored peppers and onions. It was smoky, it was charred, it was fatty and meaty, and it was sizable. Tucked under it was a sturdy rolled cheese enchilada soaked in fruity, tangy guajillo chile next to a mound of poblano-flavored rice, a dollop of refried black beans and a fan of avocado slices. Everything held its shape and flavor perfectly.

Knowing the wizardry of pastry chef Jessica Bransford, I knew the grapefruit and mezcal cake with salted honey would be a treat, and it was: a generous square of a simple, but delicious, batter crowned with whole citrus slices, and dressed in an array of smoky, sweet and tangy flavors.

Clockwise from top, Vietnamese pickles, prawn chips, roasted peanuts; fish sauce, ginger and honey chicken wings; green papaya salad with lemon grass and chile beef jerky make up a dish from Open Kitchen, which has locations in Santa Fe and Los Alamos. (Molly Boyle/For the Journal)

Another evening, in search of more far-flung flavors, I sampled “Let’s Nhau! A Feast of Vietnamese Tapas.” This assortment of Vietnamese appetizers ($65) came via delivery from chef Hue-Chan Karels’ Open Kitchen. Open Kitchen has moved from the catering business to meal delivery and pickup during the pandemic, and its pop-up dinner events have become multicourse delivery events.

There were dark, sticky chicken wings redolent of fish sauce, ginger and honey, sided with pickled veggies (cauliflower, carrots), roasted peanuts and big white prawn chips, which I dipped in a sweet, plummy sauce. A vinegary green papaya salad with lemon grass and bits of spicy beef jerky cooled my palate before I wrapped grilled shrimp skewers and rice noodles with basil and cilantro in large lettuce leaves, dipping them back in the sauce.

A warming bowl of cháo vit, a duck and rice porridge, was the flavorful sum of its intricate parts. A duck egg marinated with ginger and fish sauce, braised shiitake mushrooms, pickled mustard greens and crispy shallots, all wrapped separately, rounded out the soup with a symphony of separate notes.

A pair of bánh tieu, small hollow doughnuts sprinkled with sesame, finished Karels’ careful orchestration.

And at the end of that pretty great multicourse meal deal, I’ll have a whole new year of culinary creativity ahead of me.


Albuquerque Journal and its reporters are committed to telling the stories of our community.

• Do you have a question you want someone to try to answer for you? Do you have a bright spot you want to share?
   We want to hear from you. Please email yourstory@abqjournal.com

Nativo Sponsored Content

Ad Tango

taboola desktop

MORE ARTICLES LIKE THIS

1
Street smarts: Thai Street eatery offers tasty, spicy Southeast ...
Dining Reviews
As restaurateurs go, Michelle Waterson ... As restaurateurs go, Michelle Waterson and Joshua Gomez have unorthodox backgrounds.< ...
2
New flavors in Old Town
Dining Reviews
Amid all the closures plaguing the ... Amid all the closures plaguing the local restaurant industry, it's encouraging to see the number of ...
3
Bistro brings a taste of France to the high ...
Dining Reviews
Le Pommier is no longer a ... Le Pommier is no longer a secret, so do yourself a favor and ... enjoy
4
Heavenly hummus: Alquds Mediterranean Grill sets itself apart
Dining Reviews
Hummus is going through an identity ... Hummus is going through an identity crisis. Supermarket shelves are crowded with bastardized forms o ...
5
A culinary adventure: Liu Liu Liu serves Taiwanese food ...
Dining Reviews
Liu Liu Liu is an upscale ... Liu Liu Liu is an upscale restaurant like you've never seen before.You squint at the m ...
6
Built to last: El Papaturro upholds El Salvador's remarkable ...
Dining Reviews
Albuquerque is in the midst of ... Albuquerque is in the midst of a boom in Central and South American restaurants. In the past few yea ...
7
Piece of the pie: Slice Parlor offers tasty thin-crust ...
Dining Reviews
The idea of serving pizza by ... The idea of serving pizza by the slice grew out of the shift from coal- to gas-powered ovens in 1930 ...
8
Sip and savor the best of Santa Fe's summer ...
Dining Reviews
From pizza and cocktails, and lobster ... From pizza and cocktails, and lobster and pesto to the essence of summer in vegetables
9
Casting a spell: Voodoo Girl Pizza & Pints offers ...
Brews News
Kimberly Lujan and her brother, Timothy ... Kimberly Lujan and her brother, Timothy McMahon, cycled through a few hundred names for their new pi ...