Like the Eldorado Hotel where it’s located, the Old House Restaurant has the sophisticated feel of a place in a city much grander than Santa Fe.
The atmosphere manages to reconcile understatement with larger-than-life furniture and trimmings, and the food is likewise excellent and generous without being precious.
The Old House prides itself on its steaks, which we sampled to our great pleasure, but its seafood also is excellent. The service is everything you’d expect in a top-rated hotel.
My guest the evening we dined was a frequent invitee whose only fault, as far as I’m concerned, is to habitually ask for calamari if it’s on the menu. I was especially pleased that the Old House version of this standard ($12) was more imaginatively presented than is usual.