SANTA FE, N.M. — One step inside Milad Persian Bistro and you realize what the Middle East and Santa Fe have in common: adobe. Milad’s thick adobe walls and arched doorways could be straight out of Iran.
We started with a house standard: hummus ($6) with a side of green chile. It was everything you would expect of this dish: a nice, garlicky puree of chickpea, with carrots and celery for scooping and a side of fresh, hot pita wedges for those dedicated to carbs. I didn’t taste the chopped green chile on the side, but it must have been good — it disappeared among my three guests in short order.
The appetizer menu included stuffed dates, an interesting salad and various cheese and herb combinations. I would have liked to try nearly all of them, but we opted for one of the more unusual: jigar, or liver slices with pomegranate sauce ($7). This was excellent — tender slices of liver, grilled to nearly rare perfection, and served with a sweet and intriguing pool of pomegranate juice. We gobbled it up.
Entrees were listed as kebabs and ranged from beef and lamb to chicken, fish and vegetables. None of these were what we would think of, conventionally, as kebabs — all our choices were served without the skewer. But they were kebab-like — namely, grilled.
The lamb ($16) was voted best of show. Very tender and just barely rare slices of lamb arrived on a pile of basmati rice with a dribble of saffron, and a side of salad — we’d call it a kind of salsa, featuring diced tomatoes, onion, cucumber and fresh herbs, including mint.
The beef ($18) was filet mignon, thinly sliced, grilled perfectly and served with the same accompaniments. I opted for the fish ($16) and was more than happy, even though the waiter apologized that it wouldn’t be the listed mahi, but rather salmon. It was perfectly cooked — just on the rare side of completely done, and very fresh and nice.
Support your local Albuquerque Journal & ABQJournal News Staff SUBSCRIBE NOW cancel anytime