Chili’s Grill & Bar is still an American institution

In case you haven’t heard, Chili’s Grill & Bar is making a comeback among restaurants nationwide.

It’s also making a comeback into my life. After being without a Chili’s for three years in Oregon, where I lived before moving to Albuquerque, I could not help but review one of the chain’s locations in my new hometown.

But first, let’s talk about what’s happening with Chili’s. The company recently reported its third straight quarter of double-digit sales growth, and its sales last quarter alone among its newer locations were up 31%, according to a CNN report, citing conversations in an earnings call.

Chili’s, founded in Texas in 1975, is seeing a rebirth 50 years after it opened. But why? Chili’s parent company, Brinker International, has worked for two years on the restaurant’s overhaul, cutting some menu items, publicizing value meals and even changing kitchen procedures, according to the Wall Street Journal. The changes have helped Chili’s increase its number of customers by 20% over the last three months, WSJ said.

Having done my homework, the only thing left for me to do was eat.

In a visit to the restaurant in the Northeast Heights, I ordered one of their “Big Mouth Burgers” — the Bacon Rancher ($18.49) — consisting of two beef patties, slices of bacon, housemade ranch, American cheese, grilled onions and pickles. For dessert, I had the Mini Molten Chocolate Cake ($3.99), served with vanilla ice cream in a hard chocolate shell. The cake was drizzled in chocolate sauce and caramel, all on a warm plate.

When Chili’s says its burgers are for big mouths, they’re not kidding. I was never able to open my mouth wide enough for a little bit of everything the sandwich had to offer. Eating this was an incremental project, but I got the job done.

The patties seared on each side were juicy, and there was cheese on both patties — two things that are on my checklist when evaluating a burger. But I thought there was too much bacon and I was yearning for more ranch.

The cake was super chocolatey and moist, a stark contrast to the cool ice cream — pure genius! The sauces were a nice touch and added some decadence, which is what a dessert should be.

However, I was somewhat disappointed there wasn’t a huge mound of ice cream atop the cake. I was feeling like something was missing from this meal as I finished off the last few bites.

I went to Chili’s yet again a few days later. I ventured to another Albuquerque Chili’s with a singular mission: To try one of their staple items, the Triple Dipper ($16.29). This appetizer is what it sounds like: three types of sauces to support three different samples of food. I chose the mini burgers, the mozzarella bites and the Southwest egg rolls.

The burgers were hot, served with cheese and grilled onions — my favorite combination. Paired with ranch sauce, I found myself forgetting ketchup existed.

The mozzarella sticks were hot, crunchy and gooey — just what you’d hope for if you ordered them at an Italian restaurant. The fact that they were huge made them even better than what you might find at an Italian restaurant. Dipping them in marinara sauce was a true delight.

Then there were the egg rolls — Oh, the egg rolls! They’re filled with chicken, black beans, corn, jalapeño jack cheese, red peppers and spinach, all rolled into a crispy flour tortilla. Dipped in an avocado ranch sauce, the egg rolls practically sent my stomach into the stratosphere.

All in all, not bad, Chili’s. You’re still the same great place I always knew. Thank you for the memories and the heartburn, truly. I can guarantee you I’ll be making a comeback through your doors.

Chili's Grill & Bar is still an American institution

Nibbles is a recurring dining review by Journal staffers of restaurants across New Mexico.