Dig in!: 'Forks in the Road' features the iconic eateries, stories and smells of New Mexico

Visitors will be forgiven if they salivate through the latest exhibition at the Palace of the Governors.

“Forks in the Road: A Diner’s Guide to New Mexico” features iconic eateries, stories and smells curated by Catherine Trujillo and guest curator John Vollertsen, a private Santa Fe chef known as “Chef Johnny Vee.”

“It’s an immersive culinary experience,” Trujillo said. “We asked, ‘How do New Mexicans gather around food?’ We landed on restaurants.”

Dig in!: 'Forks in the Road' features the iconic eateries, stories and smells of New Mexico

Visitors can muse about their first bite of rich red chile, fork-tender carne adovada or the tingling taste buds of a Hatch green chile enchilada.

New Mexicans are proud of their cuisine, and visitors from around the world come here to see what all the delicious fuss is about.

Museum curators asked for nominations online; they received more than 100. The winners ranged from Santa Fe’s Plaza Café and Tia Sophia’s, to Mr. Powdrell’s Barbeque House and Duran’s Central Pharmacy in Albuquerque, to Clovis’ Foxy Drive-In and Charlie’s Spic & Span Cafe in Las Vegas, New Mexico.

Mr. Powdrell’s Barbeque House was a beloved Albuquerque institution renowned for its smoky, juicy brisket until its closure in late June. Founded by Pete Powdrell in 1984, the restaurant had been a local favorite for generations. Its reputation soared when Paul Allen, who co-founded Microsoft with his friend Bill Gates in Albuquerque in 1975, discovered the joys of Powdrell’s smoky, juicy brisket sandwich. Years later in 2016, Allen brought the taste of Albuquerque to Seattle Seahawks fans by partnering with Powdrell’s Barbeque to serve its hickory-smoked brisket topped with its signature barbecue sauce at the stadium.

Economic hardship drove Greek immigrants to the American West in the early 20th century. Leonardo Razatos, second-generation owner of the Plaza Café, credits the Greek emphasis on hospitality and communal dining for the widespread success of Greeks in the industry. Danny Razatos bought the restaurant in 1947. He was famously adamant that neither tourists nor locals would come to Santa Fe to eat Greek food.

In 1961, Danny married a Santa Fe woman, Bene Saiz, who had grown up on beans, chile and flour tortillas. New Mexican recipes adapted from her family began appearing on the menu.

In 1974, Anthony and Sophia Maryol’s son Jim and his wife Ann bought a former Chinese restaurant on Santa Fe’s San Francisco Street. They opened Tia Sophia’s there, honoring Jim’s mother. Focusing on local chile dishes, Tia’s became renowned for popularizing the smothered breakfast burrito. The term “Christmas,” describing both red and green chile, also originated at Tia’s.

Albuquerque’s Duran’s Central Pharmacy opened in 1942, when soda fountains lodged a permanent spot in drug stores. The pharmacist Robert Ghattas bought the business in 1965, when the trend was waning. He introduced daily lunch specials to attract more customers. He soon transformed the soda fountain into a full-fledge restaurant serving a variety of New Mexican dishes.

Both scent and sounds will accompany museum-goers as they learn about their favorite restaurants. The anise and cinnamon scent of biscochitos will waft from a portable station. The smell of roasting red and green chiles will whet the appetite as guests wander.

A culinary jukebox soundtrack blares food-related songs such as “Route 66,” recorded by everyone from Chuck Berry and Nat King Cole to Depeche Mode. The iconic song leads a list that features “New Mexico” by Johnny Cash, “I Love Sopaipillas” by Peter Apel, “Hot Dogs and Frybread Too” by Faran Sohappy, “Spanish Rice” by Clark Terry and “Red Red Wine” by UB40, among others.

The exhibit includes a replica dining booth for selfies and a state map showing restaurants nominated by the public. Visitors will be able to contribute their own restaurant memories by recording stories on a call-in telephone.

“I get hungry just walking in there,” Trujillo said. “It’s more than the food, it’s the people behind it. It’s our collective menu of these restaurants.”