Still iconic: New management, same good service and reliable dishes at Owl Cafe

One of the great restaurant origin stories in New Mexico history traces itself to a small grocery store in the town of San Antonio, New Mexico, 90 miles south of Albuquerque. The year was 1945 and Dee and Frank Chavez were running a bar in the store owned by Dee’s father.

In response to a sudden influx of new customers — scientists from the Manhattan Project who were in the area preparing for a nuclear test at the nearby missile range — the Chavezes installed a grill and served up cheeseburgers topped with local green chile. The scientists were smitten, and the Owl Cafe was born. It would go on to become one of the most acclaimed burger joints in the country.

Still iconic: New management, same good service and reliable dishes at Owl Cafe

In 1986, Albuquerque entrepreneur Ski Martin scooped up the franchise rights for the Owl and opened an Albuquerque location on Eubank Boulevard near Interstate 40. The café quickly became a favorite among locals and an almost mandatory stop for road trippers. Also mandatory: a photograph of the edifice with its giant owl gazing sphinx-like over the passing traffic.

Recently, a new chapter of the story began with the acquisition of the Albuquerque location by locals Corey Moulton and Matthew Bernabe. Moulton, former general manager at Pappadeaux, and Bernabe, owner of Urban Hot Dog and Fat Franks, promised that changes would be minimal.

Based on my recent visit, that appears to be the case. The selection of burgers, New Mexican dishes and milkshakes is the same, even if prices are a bit higher than a year ago. Every booth has a jukebox, and meals still begin with a complimentary bowl of beans and green chile. The only difference I noticed was that the hoods behind the counter, formerly painted forest green, are now covered in faux stone tiles.

I was there to meet a friend for a weekday lunch. There’s a narrow parking lot on the entry side, and a spacious and almost empty one on the other side that faces the remains of a Howard Johnson’s Motor Lodge. Lunch hour found the oval-shaped dining room about half full. Two long countertops lined with stools fan out from a cash register flanked by postcards and T-shirts. More than 100 owl figurines — most donated by patrons — line shelves set high above the booths on both sides of the space.

We settled into a booth near the kitchen to a soundtrack of rock ’n’ roll from the 1950s and ’60s that fit the throwback aesthetic. The server deposited several menus on our table. The appetizers menu features shareable dishes like battered and fried mushrooms, pickles and zucchini priced in the $10 neighborhood. Flavorful green chile with moderate heat highlighted the free bowl of beans that arrived shortly after we ordered.

I chose the Huevos Rancheros ($17) with red chile and eggs over easy from the menu of all-day breakfast items. The server’s solemn warnings about the heat of the red chile convinced me to get it on the side. I felt pangs of regret when I saw the plate. The large flour tortilla, fried potatoes and eggs looked forlorn without the covering of sauce and melted cheese. But the server was right about the chile: it was molten. The first taste of it hit like a lit match to the tongue. The potatoes were hot and crisp, the eggs were cooked correctly, but in the end, I decided that huevos rancheros with the sauce on the side are simply not huevos rancheros.

The menu holds a full page of New Mexican specialties, priced mostly between $15 and $20. My friend ordered the Owlchiladas ($18.75), a spin on enchiladas with the chile swapped out for a creamy green chile chicken sauce. The peppery cream sauce tamped down the heat of the chile. Sampling it, I was reminded of dipping a tortilla into green chile stew. It was served with beans and rice.

Burgers are divided up into classics that cost a little below $10 and pricier options like a Patty Melt and a California Burger that go for $17.70 each. The famous Green Chile Cheeseburger ($9.95) is served on a fresh bun under sliced tomatoes and a big pile of shredded lettuce. I liked that the smashed burger style patty that extended beyond the margins of the bun was juicy and had an appetizing crust on it. I didn’t like that the green chile got swallowed up in the mayonnaise.

Fries cost extra. The generous serving of the Sweet Potato version ($4.25) was thinly cut with crisp edges. The small cup of aioli that tasted like French dressing was an offbeat accompaniment that only amplified the sweetness of the fries.

Other portions of the menu are devoted to hot dogs, salads and Blue-Plate Specials ($21.95) like Meatloaf and Chicken-fried Steak.

The dessert menu has ice cream treats and fruit and custard pies, while the extensive roster of shakes is listed on a separate card. Classics like Vanilla and Chocolate are $8.25. The Chocolate Shake arrived in a tall glass topped with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry and accompanied by an additional serving that took up about a quarter of the metal cup it was made in. It tasted like vanilla ice cream with chocolate syrup added. The slightly more expensive Specialty Shakes ($8.50) offer a wide selection of flavors, including two with chile. I tried the Banana Rama, a mix of banana and pineapple with flavor reminiscent of a piña colada. It was an appealing combination, the banana flavor balancing the tart pineapple. The extra-wide straws were appreciated.

Beer and wine will be available once the new owners secure a liquor license.

Service was prompt. The place was well-staffed and there were no long waits for anything. The server told me there are no gluten-free bread or buns available: a deficiency the new owners could easily fix.

The Owl Cafe is suffused with nostalgia. It offers good service and reliable dishes in an evocative setting, but there is room for improvement — something the new owners are well-qualified to bring.