DINING REVIEW

Delicious right out of The Block: That’s My Rez Sandwich shines at Rio Rancho food court

 

Published

THAT’S MY REZ SANDWICH

3 stars

LOCATION: 7805 Enchanted Hills Blvd. NE, instagram.com/thatsmyrezsandwich

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily

ALCOHOL ON PREMISES

The food court phenomenon bypassed Rio Rancho until September 2024, when a shipping container complex called The Block opened in the Enchanted Hills neighborhood on the north side of the city.

The long-delayed project is shoehorned between two shopping centers on the west side of N.M. 528 near Santa Ana Star Casino. It joins Albuquerque’s Green Jeans Food Hall and Tin Can Alley as the only shipping container complexes in the Metro area.

Vendors consist of a mix of familiar names and some new ventures.

I visited The Block recently to try one of those fledglings: That’s My Rez Sandwich, the brainchild of chef Isaiah Martinez and his brother-in-law Richard DeVore of Jemez Pueblo, the community of about 2,000 located just south of Valles Caldera.

Martinez is a veteran of the food industry who was yearning to strike out on his own. Lacking the capital to launch a food truck, he found an opportunity with a lower barrier to entry at The Block. After negotiations, he opened in October — hardly an ideal time to launch an outdoor venue. Even so, the shop has generated some good buzz.

That’s My Rez Sandwich is located on the north side of a complex consisting of shipping containers painted navy blue and arranged around a fake-turf courtyard with picnic tables, benches and a stage for musical performances. Restaurants include a few familiar names like Stackers Burgers, Thicc Pizza and Busy Bee Frozen Custard. Maps are displayed at the entrances to help orient newcomers.

The scene was sleepy when I arrived there during a recent lunch hour. Blustery weather had driven most of the patrons to an indoor dining area on the west side of the complex.

Approaching the counter at That’s My Rez, I was greeted warmly by Martinez, who was manning the place all by himself. Martinez is a great ambassador for the restaurant who clearly takes pride in his work. Part of his excitement, he told me, centered around the prospect of warmer weather and the crowds it would bring.

The menu displayed next to the counter offers five sandwiches and a chef’s salad. Available on white or wheat bread, the sandwiches cost $7.99 or $10.99 as a combo with chips and a drink.

Despite the name, there are no obvious links to Indigenous cuisine on the menu. No fry bread, no three sisters; just a few standard deli sandwiches spiced up with green chile. The only obvious connection is the presence of bologna, the lunch meat whose shelf life, availability and affordability made it a staple of life on the reservation — so much so that Native Americans often refer to it as “Indian steak.”

Bologna is featured in the sandwich that leads off the menu, The Pueblo Deli. It’s a thick stack of Black Forest ham and bologna folded over green chile, lettuce, tomato and cheddar cheese and held together with fresh, crusty bread; in this case, wheat. The sandwich was served wrapped in paper and sliced in two. The fillings displayed an appetizing interplay between the firmer ham and the spicier, more rubbery bologna, with the green chile and green chile mayo adding a little zip.

The 505 Fire Stack combines three different pork cold cuts — salami, prosciutto and ham — with Swiss cheese, banana peppers, tomato, lettuce, olives and red onion. I had this on white bread that was just as fresh and crusty as the wheat. The sandwich exhibited the subtle differences in flavor and texture between the three meats: the firm, savory salami at one end, the salty, wispy prosciutto at the other, and the ham sitting in the sweet spot in between. The peppers added a mild tang, and the green chile mayo delivered a finishing sting. Another successful rendition.

The sole vegetarian option on the menu is the Mother Earth Wrap. The bright-green spinach wrap, crisped up on the grill, held sliced cucumber, tomato and roasted bell peppers laced with spicy honey and green chile hummus. A flavorful mix with crunch and a bit of heat.

The menu also offers a Cedar Caesar Sandwich with turkey, bacon, lettuce, Caesar dressing, tomato and Parmesan cheese, and a Mesa Turkey Club comprised of smoked turkey, bacon and Swiss cheese and veggies. Both were out of stock by the time I arrived.

The lone nonsandwich item on the menu is a Chef’s Salad ($7.99) consisting of turkey, ham, two types of cheese and veggies heaped in a Styrofoam container. It was a colorful presentation with the ingredients thoughtfully arranged into vertical strips. One side held diced tomatoes, thin-sliced cucumbers and chunks of yellow cheddar cheese: the other featured turkey, ham and Swiss cheese. The tangy, creamy dressing and generous seasonings tied it all together over a bed of crunchy iceberg lettuce. The serving was more than enough for a meal.

Highlighting the drinks selection is Kool-Aid ($1.99 for 20 ounces). Unfortunately, it was out of stock by the time I got there.

I was unable to find a phone number for the shop, but it does have an active Instagram account, and customers can order online through Doordash. Martinez told me that he expects to add more menu items in the coming months.

That’s My Rez Sandwich’s namesake items feature good bread and tasty fillings that are optimally balanced and enlivened with spicy condiments. Under the oversight of Martinez, it has the makings of another food court success story.

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