Find out which restaurant is a promising entry in ABQ’s Vietnamese food scene

Recent years have seen Albuquerque’s well-established Vietnamese food scene trend away from formal sit-down restaurants toward more casual operations where customers order and pick up their food at the counter. These places typically offer banh mi sandwiches and a limited selection of entrees, plus an appetizing display case of baked goods by the register.

While James Beard nominee Coda Bakery in the International District represents the apotheosis of the form, a recent arrival has been attracting praise from its base in a strip mall at the busy intersection of San Mateo and Montgomery boulevards.

The restaurant, punningly called Banh Me & U, opened early this year in Montgomery Plaza, a shopping center best known for discount clothing stores. It shares a building on the south side of the complex with Jimmy John’s, Great Clips and Domino’s. Ample parking is available, and the entrance on San Mateo Boulevard makes it easy to get in and out without having to cross the busy plaza parking lot. 

The dining room is a clean, bright space with windows on one side, a counter on the other and an exposed ceiling above. A colorful array of macarons and slices of cheesecake fill the display case adjacent to the registers. 

In a reflection of the times, Banh Me & U has a circular niche set into one wall where influencer types can commemorate their visit with a picture or three. Seating options include four-top tables and a counter along the windows that offers views of the long drive-thru lines at Raising Cane’s across the street.

I visited during the weekday lunch hour to find the place doing a brisk business — maybe not Coda Bakery-level busy, but steady, nonetheless. A couple of large groups had pushed some tables together in the middle of the room. People picking up to-go orders waited in a designated seating area by the entrance. 

The menu, displayed on big electronic boards on the wall, is broken up into Banh Mi, Hot Plates, Noodle and Salad Bowls and Drinks, along with a small selection of appetizers like Egg Rolls, Shrimp Tempura and Spring Rolls. I tried the Grilled Shrimp Spring Rolls ($7.80). Three reddened shrimp were visible through the rice paper of each of the two thick rolls. Each bite brought a good crunch of fresh lettuce and cucumbers spears, and a refreshing finish from the minty herbs. The thick peanut sauce that accompanied the rolls was briny and sweet. A stellar version of this familiar treat that works as a shareable starter or a standalone dish.

The nine banh mi sandwiches on the menu include versions filled with the traditional mix of pork-based cold cuts. Other available fillings were meatballs, grilled chicken and shrimp. The Special ($10.99) combines ham, pork bologna and pâté on bread smeared with mayo and girded with pickled daikon and carrot sticks and a few jalapeños that supplied a kick of heat. The housemade bread was airy and light with a crackling shell, and I liked how the intensely rich pâté played off the rubbery, mildly flavored meats. It’s banh mi that stands with any in town. 

An unusual feature of the menu is a selection of Hot Plates, sizzling platters of meat that are a popular choice for communal meals in Vietnam. Banh Me & U offers versions with steak, chicken, pork and shrimp. I tried the Hot Plate Steak and Eggs ($21.83). The plate was indeed sizzling when it arrived on a cast iron pan with an oven mitt on the handle. Half the plate was given over to a stir-fry of steak, onions and peppers. Pâté, a beefy sauce and a sunny-side up egg filled in the other half. It’s like an Asian version of huevos rancheros with a sauce that delivered sweetness and umami. The flat pieces of steak, however, were tough. I’d try a different protein next time. The little blimp of bread served on the side with soft cheese spread was best utilized to sop up the tasty sauce.

Another unique feature on the menu is Korean Corn Dogs, a popular street food item made with wheat flour instead of cornmeal. These fried treats became trendy here in the United States a few years back, but Banh Me & U’s versions were the first I’ve encountered in Albuquerque. They’re available filled with mozzarella or a mix of cheese and a hot dog. Each comes in a choice of four flavors. I ordered the spicy flavored Mozzarella Corn Dog ($7.95). Served in a paper boat under a dusting of what looked like Hot Cheetos, it resembled something you’d pick up at the State Fair. The crunchy shell of panko yielded to a soft, doughy middle that oozed melted mozzarella. A good concept, but a miss for me, as the spice level was not close to hot and parts of the inside were underheated. 

When it comes to drinks, Banh Me & U goes above and beyond other Vietnamese places in town. The selections take up two of the electronic menu screens. There are smoothies, specialty coffees and boba tea, along with a set of Signature Drinks that leads off with the Me & U Fruit Tea ($8.29) comprised of ice, chopped strawberries and a wedge of pineapple. The ruby red drink was artfully presented in a clear plastic cup with a pop top and a straw wide enough to vacuum up the fruit. Sweet and smooth, if quite pricey.

The counter and kitchen were well-staffed and the folks working the front were friendly and helpful. Gluten-friendly options are limited. 

An efficient operation in an attractive space, Banh Me & U is a promising entry in the city’s Vietnamese food scene. Its unique offerings and quality banh mi sandwiches make it worth a visit.