Find out which Venezuelan restaurant is a great addition to Downtown’s food scene

Downtown Albuquerque is home to a diverse ethnic dining scene. Central Avenue and neighboring streets host French, Afghan, Mexican, Japanese and Greek restaurants, and with the recent arrival of Arepas el Pana, the cuisine of Venezuela has planted a flag there.

Arepas el Pana joins Cacho’s Latin Flavor, El Chamo Arabe and El Palacio Imperial as local restaurants explicitly dedicated to the dishes of Venezuela, a country whose location on the Caribbean coast of South America has given rise to a unique cuisine that mixes West African, Spanish and Indigenous traditions.

As the name indicates, the restaurant specializes in arepas, the savory grilled corn cakes that are used in sandwiches and as standalone side dishes. Derived from an Indigenous word for corn, they are one of the oldest dietary staples in the Western Hemisphere. Archaeological evidence shows that the pre-Colombian people of South America were grilling these tasty cakes some 2,000 to 3,000 years ago.

Their enduring power is no wonder, as they pair well with both sweet and savory fillings.

Arepas el Pana opened near the end of 2024. Its name is drawn from a slang term in Spanish for “friend.” It stands on the north side of Central Avenue, near Fourth Street, its entrance marked by a sign bearing the image of a cartoon bear holding an arepa and an empanada. Metered spaces are plentiful within walking distance of the restaurant.

The small dining room is crowded with a half-dozen two-top tables and cushioned metal chairs. Additional seating is available on the patio out front and at the counter next to a display case of baked goods. During my visit, music — mostly reggaeton — played at a modest volume. After ordering at the counter, patrons get a number and the food is brought out from the kitchen.

The menu is surprisingly extensive for such a small place. Entire pages are devoted to arepas, empanadas, entrees and drinks. The headliners are, of course, the arepas. Priced mostly in the $8 to $12 range, they are available with 14 different fillings.

The Smoked Ham and Gouda Cheese ($9.50) version showcases the kitchen’s skill in preparing the corn cakes. The hefty sandwich arrived in a foil wrapper on a metal tray accompanied by a squeeze bottle of guasacaca, a thick, pale green sauce that tasted of mayonnaise, avocado and herbs. The arepas were hot and buttery, with a crisp outer shell and a soft core. Instead of thin slices of deli meat, the ham in this was thick and seared on the grill. Very satisfying, and suitable as breakfast or lunch.

The more substantial Arepa Pabellón ($11.50) reflects the key influences on Venezuelan cuisine. Pabellón is a mix of shredded beef, sweet fried plantains and rice that is considered the national dish of Venezuela. Arepas el Pana’s version takes this dish, swaps the rice for queso fresco, and stuffs it between two pieces of corn flatbread. The thick fingers of fried plantains that protruded from the arepas were covered with a snowfall of mild-flavored white cheese. Deeper inside the corn cake sat a pile of beef in shreds and clumps over black beans that are prepared in house. The effect is savory and sweet. The beef, fragrant with spice and tender, was especially good, and it paired well with the sourish guasacaca.

The second page of the menu is given over to a selection of Empanadas. The 15 versions priced from $6 to $8.50 include beef, chicken, pork, cheese and a seafood mix of shrimp, octopus and calamari. With the fillings sealed in the pocket of a thick, flaky crust, they are easier to eat than the arepas. The Pollo y Tajada ($6.50) empanada was quite good, with a filling of succulent, peppery white meat chicken and a sweet finish from the plantains tucked in the side.

Among the dozen entrees priced from $14 to $20 are pork chops, beef steak and grilled chicken, each served with a choice of lemonade or a cup of soup. A serving of the Venezuelan beef stew known as Carne Guisada ($15.99) arrived on a large plate with the stew on one side, a salad on the other. The stew was a generous portion of cubed beef and a few chunks of potato and carrots. I liked the thick, fragrant sauce, but some of the beef was tough. A flawless sliced avocado and a sweet and tart vinaigrette dressing topped the salad. The lentil soup, meaty and warmly seasoned and only slightly salty, was very good.

Other menu options include six large Chicken Wings ($13.99), a couple of burgers with fries and an array of side dishes like Tostones, Yuca Fries and Tequenos, an iconic Venezuelan finger food made with strips of cheese encased in a crisp breading. The three desserts on the menu include Tres Leches, Tiramisu and Quesillo, a caramel custard dessert similar to flan.

The expansive Drinks menu has a variety of coffee selections ranging in price from $3.25 for an Espresso to $6.50 for a Caramel Iced Latte. Guanabana ($7), also known as soursop, headlined the expansive roster of Smoothies that cost $5.50 to $7. Served in a plastic cup, it resembled a frozen lemonade and carried the pleasing flavor of a pineapple with the tartness muted. Refreshing.

Service was brisk and friendly, and the food came out in just a few minutes. The arepas are gluten-free and there are vegetarian options as well.

Arepas el Pana is a great addition to Downtown’s food scene. It’s heartening to see it thrive amid the city’s preponderance of fast-food franchises.