Fresh, pho-tastic feast

Some people called it Super Bowl weekend. Others were more concerned with the Winter Olympics in Italy. Albuquerque foodies knew Ma’s Tea House had something more special than the Seattle Seahawks or the New England Patriots. Or even Lindsey Vonn somersaulting into the icy ground in the downhill.

Fresh pho.

Pho weekend meant the flavorful, hot winter treat was back in limited quantities at the Paradise Boulevard location with slow-simmered broth and other fresh ingredients. Another pho three-day weekend is scheduled to start March 6. After that, the hot pots will be put away until cool weather returns in fall, said one of the owners of the family-run boba tea and snack spot.

Despite making more of the fragrant broth and vegetable sides than in previous months, the heartwarming, tongue-tickling delicacy was all gone early, long before Ma’s early closing Super Bowl Sunday. Pho-seeking diners wandered in after 2 p.m. and were still rewarded with scores of drink combinations, including boba, or the daily snacks that remained.

The shop offers limited food choices with fresh ingredients each day, so sometimes treats run out.

A young boy burst into the restaurant searching for a young member of the owner’s family, who quickly called him to the front to play. This true family business is named for the mother of the cook.

I tasted Ma’s Matcha Cloud drink, about $7, but I was there for the pho and foods of the day, which included Cajun Chicken, Char Sui Bao Bun and Spicy Fries. The pho this month rang in around $13 and included either rare beef, brisket or meatball, and all the expected veggies including cilantro, bean sprouts, jalapeños and Thai basil leaves.

I opted for the rare beef. The thin slices melted in my mouth, barely requiring a chew. I slurped up the al dente rice noodles and sipped the fragrant, rich broth, which rivaled that which I have drunk — yes, drunk — in southwest Houston’s Little Saigon neighborhood. My Chinese American college roommate, who spoke Cantonese at home, always said “drink soup,” which I never understood until my palate matured to where I could tell the difference between chicken soup made with chicken pieces that ran through the broth versus Thai Tom Yum or pho that simmered for hours.

A unique flavor at Ma’s that should not be missed is its homemade green chile sriracha, which had the bite of the bottled red chile condiment without the slightly processed taste.

The limited food menu includes a few staples, as well as daily specials, to fill you up when enjoying your drinks. I munched on Spicy Cajun Popcorn Chicken and soft, spongy Bao Buns filled with bright red barbecue pork char siu. The steamed white pillows of bao gave a flavor that matched the dim sum staple served from carts on weekend mornings with hot tea at places like Albuquerque’s Ming Dynasty.

The Cajun Chicken and Fries provided a nice salty foil to the refreshing drink. A soft-airy cloud foam hat topped the matcha Cloud Drink’s subtle coconut water and ice base.

Be sure to watch Ma’s social media to find out about specials or drop in any day for a quick snack and an icy drink during the upcoming hot Albuquerque months.

Donn Friedman is a roving columnist for The Sunday Journal’s GO New Mexico outside section. He is the retired assistant managing editor for technology and production for the Albuquerque Journal. His LinkedIn profile is at linkedin.com/in/donn-friedman-94511a.