Take your taste buds to Colombia at Ajiaco

“Bienvenidos, ¿Cómo te va?”

Welcome in, how are you?

That’s how the server greets his regulars at Ajiaco Colombian Bistro as he guides them to their table. As soon as you step through the doors at Ajiaco, the alegria — joy — is contagious. Cumbia plays over the speakers, and you can’t help tapping your feet along. Even after a long day, an hour to closing, the server is singing and dancing to Spanish hits as he goes from table to table.

Ajiaco is named for a Colombian comfort food, a traditional stew made of potatoes, chicken, corn and guasca, an herb endemic to the Latin American country.

Just south of Central Avenue, Ajiaco sits in the quiet end of the Nob Hill neighborhood, nestled between coffee shops and brunch spots. I first heard about it from a former boss, a proud Colombian man, who, because he had worked in fine dining around the world, was not terribly easy to impress. Ajiaco, however, impressed him — so I had to go. It’s been one of my favorites ever since. It was even the last meal I ate with my family before I left Albuquerque to study in Spain for six months.

I always order the same thing, the Bandeja Paisa ($25), a diverse platter of the country’s classics: steak, chicharrones, Colombian chorizo, plantain, a fried egg, avocado, an arepa, and beans and rice. Everything is simple, but it’s always done right.

Because I arrived towards the end of dinner service, my plate came with an unexpected, but welcome, surprise – Yuca Fries with Chimichurri. Yuca, not to be confused with the towering plant us desert dwellers are familiar with, is a starchy root vegetable that grows in tropical climates around the world. Imagine the crispiest potato fries you’ve ever had, and you’ll have an approximation of Ajiaco’s Yuca Fries.

Although the plate is plentiful, and more than most could eat in one sitting, you’re still left wanting more. It’s the perfect entry point for Colombian food first-timers.

For those not familiar with Colombian cuisine, there is one staple you need to know — arepas. An arepa is a thin, fried corn cake, often stuffed with a variety of meats, or served with sauces to dip.

For my second entree, I ordered the Arepa Sandwich ($17), another classic food you’ll find in any Colombian place worth visiting. Stuffed with shredded chicken and soaked in a Creole sauce, this sandwich is the perfect bite. The cilantro sauce on top brings a light, herby reprieve from the rich, cheesy filling.

There is a phrase in Spanish, “Echar de menos” which means to feel that something is missing and to long for it. Though not a Spanish speaker by birth, I’ve known the language since early childhood. Going to Ajiaco is comforting, it exercises the bilingual muscles that don’t always get stretched now that I live on my own. I can only imagine the comfort it brings to Albuquerque’s Colombianos — the warmth it brought to my boss, who had been away from home for decades.

Ajiaco, with its joyful service, classic dishes and warm atmosphere, is a place you will surely echarlo de menos as soon as you leave its doors.

Take your taste buds to Colombia at Ajiaco