A love of creation: M’tucci’s Brianna Dennis serves up tempting pastries and 'delectable memories'

Editor’s note: Cocina Connection is a once-a-month feature that takes a behind-the-scenes look at a New Mexico-based chef, who, in turn, shares some recipes.

Being in the kitchen is second nature for Brianna Dennis.

The Albuquerque-based pastry chef grew up in her grandmother’s restaurant in Santa Fe.

Casa Margaritas was next to the Yucca Drive-In, and Dennis spent a good chunk of her childhood there.

“My mom was a server at the restaurant,” Dennis says. “I spent days running around the restaurant. It was during that time that my interest piqued about the culinary world. I didn’t know what it was, but I wanted to be in the kitchen.”

From the restaurant kitchen to the family home where many amazing dinners were shared with loved ones, Dennis was inspired to take a chance in this world.

“My uncles are the most amazing cooks,” she says. “We would have big family dinners. My immediate family was 20-plus people and sharing food was always personal.”

A love of creation: M’tucci’s Brianna Dennis serves up tempting pastries and 'delectable memories'

Today, Dennis is the pastry chef for M’tucci’s in Albuquerque.

Every day, she shows up early in the morning to begin making the desserts for all four M’tucci’s locations in the metro area.

“It is a lot of hard work, but I have a great team with me,” she says. “I made my way to pastries after training to be a chef. People always told me that I should do both because it would make my skills more desirable. Here I am.”

Seeing her family cook at home and in the restaurant planted the seed of what would grow into a love of creation.

In junior high, Dennis fell in love with home economics.

By high school, she was deep into the culinary program at Santa Fe High.

“There was a cafe class where we made items to sell,” Dennis says. “This was the first experience of sharing the creations with others aside from my family.”

After graduation, Dennis applied at various colleges with culinary programs.

She landed up at Santa Fe Community College – a decision she doesn’t regret.

“I applied all over the country,” she says of school. “I realized if I went anywhere out of state, it would be a really big amount for tuition, and I was going to learn the same thing. I was glad to get to SFCC because, at the time, we had three female chefs – in pastry, cooking and baking.”

It was at this time, one of her teachers told her to get trained in pastry and cooking.

“My teacher told me, ‘If you’re good at both, you’ll always have a job.’ I got my baking certificate,” Dennis says. “I got my foot in the door at Savoy and I was hired as a baker. They needed me one night as the line cook, and I began to fill in the shoes until I was promoted to having both positions.”

Dennis is never one to be idle.

In addition to her regular jobs, she became a member of the culinary program faculty at Central New Mexico Community College.

She’s held that position for 11 years.

“It’s really amazing to see the next generation of chefs and bakers coming up,” she says. “It’s been a job that I’ve really enjoyed.”

Dennis’ journey has led to positions at University of New Mexico, Hotel Andaluz and Dunton Hot Springs in Colorado.

Her position as a pastry chef at UNM taught her many lessons.

“When you get orders for 20,000 cookies, don’t panic,” she says with a laugh. “UNM graduation time kept me busy. I learned my lesson by making way too many cakes.”

Dennis and her team create all the desserts from scratch.

During holiday season or Balloon Fiesta, her days get a little longer, but never exceeding 40 hours.

“At M’tucci’s we work four, 10-hour days,” she says. “It’s an awesome schedule and helps keep us fresh.”

Dennis and her team create standard desserts, while paying attention to traditional desserts such as tiramisu.

“I wanted ours to stand out and it looks like a tower of bubbles,” she says. “I wanted people to see that desserts can have shapes or curves that are appealing to the eye. Everything should have a flavor that draws up a memory. That’s what makes my job so fun. I never know what will trigger those delectable memories.”

Fruit Crostata

CRUST

2 cups all-purpose flour

4 tablespoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 large egg yolk

3 tablespoons milk (1.5 ounces)

FRUIT FILLING

3 cups fresh or frozen fruit of choice

½ cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground ginger (optional)

¼ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons butter

1 large egg

½ tsp vanilla

In a bowl, whisk flour, sugar and salt. Mix in 1 cup cold butter with two forks (or hands) until butter is smaller than pea size. Whisk together egg yolk and 3 tablespoons water; pour into flour mixture, stirring just until dough starts to form a ball. Form dough into a flat round. Cover with plastic wrap; place in refrigerator at least 1 hour or overnight.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

For fruit filling, combine sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, ginger and salt in a large bowl. Once combined, add fruit to sugar mixture and gently fold to coat the fruit.

Remove dough from refrigerator; divide evenly into 8 pieces. Roll each piece on a lightly floured surface into about 6-inch rounds; place on 2 lightly greased large baking sheets. Scoop ¼ cup of fruit mixture into center of each round; top each with butter. Fold about 1 inch of dough over the fruit all the way around to form a crust.

Combine 1 egg and vanilla; brush the outside of each tart with the egg wash. Sprinkle tarts with about 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake at 375°F for 35 to 45 minutes or until golden brown, rotating the baking sheet halfway through baking. Let cool on pan 5 minutes. Remove to a wire rack; let cool. Serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

(Recipe by Brianna Dennis)