Barelas Coffee House continues to thrive with excellent food and great service

Few restaurants are as stitched into the fabric of a community as Barelas Coffee House.

When Mike Gonzales and his late brother Jim opened the restaurant in 1978, the historic Barelas neighborhood south of Downtown was at a low point. The railroad business and all its jobs had gone, a victim of the switch from steam locomotives to diesel. An ill-advised urban renewal project had wiped out almost the entire neighborhood of South Barelas for an industrial park. The once vibrant place was left lifeless.

In this environment, the Gonzales brothers defied the odds. The restaurant prospered, fueled by friendly service and some of the best menudo in town. It moved into a larger space across the street in 1985. As its fortunes improved, the neighborhood followed suit, getting boosts from the opening of the National Hispanic Cultural Center in 2000 and the Rail Yards Market in 2014.

The restaurant became a symbol of resilience. More than a place to eat, it was a community center, its importance reflected in the roster of leading state and national politicians who made pilgrimages there.

Today, 47 years after opening, Barelas Coffee House is as vital as ever. A din of conversation enlivens the dining room where energetic servers weave around greeting regulars and newcomers alike. Clusters of people gather outside for post-prandial conversations under the long, forest green awning over the entrance.

Open for breakfast and lunch six days a week, Barelas Coffee House stands on Fourth Street just north of the intersection with Avenida Cesar Chavez. There is a small parking lot on the south side of the building, but most people take advantage of the free street parking available on both sides of Fourth Street.

Just inside sits a counter and register, where general manager Geri Lucero is a friendly and helpful presence. Vintage Coca-Cola advertisements decorate the walls of the two dining rooms. It looks bright and clean, despite its age.

A cursory glance at online reviews reveals that Barelas Coffee House attracts a mix of locals and road trippers passing through town. Its location makes it easy to reach from most parts of the city.

The menu offers a concise celebration of New Mexican cuisine. Carne Adovada & Eggs ($11.50) is one of the most popular choices of the six breakfast dishes, the server told me, so I tried it with red chile and two eggs over easy. The ample chunks of marinated, slow-cooked pork were tender and charged with the smoky, earthy flavor of the chile. The egg yolks burst at the touch of the fork, as they should, but were a little underheated. The hash browns had a terrific crunch on top.

My friend chose the Two Egg Breakfast ($11.50) with scrambled eggs under a ladleful of red chile with hash browns and a slab of ham browned from the grill. This dish was a good example of how red chile and eggs make a great pairing. The chile augments the eggs, cutting their richness and adding flavor. The ham, savory, salty and smoky, further elevated the dish.

The list of New Mexican Dishes leads off with menudo and posole. I was eager to try the menudo, the dish that Gonzales says helped the restaurant survive in its early years. It’s available in two choices: Menudo Pure and Menudo with posole.

A small bowl of Menudo Pure ($8.90), glistened with green chile. Lurking under the surface were abundant squares and rectangles of tripe that were chewy but not tough. The green chile absolutely blazed and the portion size was generous. This is a great introduction to menudo for people reluctant to try it.

A small bowl of Posole ($7.30), served Christmas style, was also very good. Fat pieces of hominy burst with the spicy, thick broth. The accompanying flour tortilla was ideal for mopping up the remains of it.

Bigger appetites can do with various New Mexican Plates based around tamales, tacos, enchiladas or chile rellenos. The plates come with beans, rice, chile and tortilla, and cost between $11.50 and $13.95.

Sandwiches range in price from $5 for a Grilled Cheese to $11.75 for the Burque Burger, an open-faced quarter-pounder smothered in chile. On my second visit, I tried the Green Chile Cheeseburger ($8.65). It’s served on a sesame seed bun with toppings of chopped lettuce and onions and sliced tomatoes and pickles on the side. The heaping pile of roasted green chile topping the thin patty was a pleasing sight, flecked with burnt parts and bringing a noticeable but not intolerable level of heat. A very good burger, even after the bottom bun started to fall apart.

Fries are $3.60 extra. I opted for a side of chicharrones ($5.75) served on a small plate. It’s great finger food. The golden brown, slightly greasy chunks of pork belly have lots of pork flavor and a compelling textural contrast between the fatty core and the crispy, crunchy ends.

The menu has a couple of sweets, including the famous Cinnamon Roll ($4.25) from Frontier. A better choice is the Sweet Rice ($3.85). It’s like an improved version of rice pudding with a soupier texture and rice that’s as plump as tapioca. The cinnamon topping was such a perfect match that I would have liked more of it. If sweet rice doesn’t do it for you, then consider the impressive selection of candy next to the front register, replete with old school stuff like Big Cherry, Sugar Daddy and Big Hunk bars.

As for drinks, the coffee ($2.25) is good and smooth, and the Arnold Palmer ($3.25) featuring rich iced tea cut by tangy lemonade is a good foil for the spicy food.

Service was brisk and attentive. It’s one of those places where the servers will check on you even if it isn’t their table. Instead of getting a check, you go to the register and give your table number and pay there — much more efficient than waiting for your check at the end of the meal. The dining rooms were quite busy both times I visited, but the crowds mostly clear out before 1 p.m.

There are no gluten-free options marked on the menu. Lucero told me the kitchen can modify many dishes to be gluten-free by substituting corn tortillas for flour ones and green chile for red (the red is made with flour). “People come in here and just make up their own meals,” she said.

Through the ups and downs of its namesake neighborhood, Barelas Coffee House has been a beacon. Rather than live on past glories, it continues to thrive with excellent food and great service.

Barelas Coffee House continues to thrive with excellent food and great service