Boldly going: Nexus delivers New Mexico soul food on the Interstate 25 corridor

In 2011, Ken Carson etched himself into local restaurant lore when he left his banking career behind for a go at the restaurant business. Inspiring Carson was the idea of bringing the flavors of New Mexico to Southern soul food.

The place, dubbed Nexus Brewery and Restaurant, proved to be a hit. Only two years after opening, it earned a spot on Guy Fieri’s popular Food Network show, “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.” The appearance further boosted the business, and suddenly road trippers were stopping in to join the locals over fried chicken and award-winning beer at the spot near Interstate 25 and Montgomery Boulevard. Nexus’ success spawned a spinoff, the Nexus Blue Smokehouse that opened on Broadway Boulevard in the South Valley in 2019.

The business was strong enough to get through the pandemic, but now, Carson faces perhaps his greatest challenge: the major construction project along I-25 between Comanche Road and Montgomery Boulevard. Plans for the three-year project include widening the interstate and rebuilding two major interchanges. Much of the work goes on within shouting distance of the restaurant’s front door.

Business has taken a hit, according to the server who I spoke with on a recent visit to the place. The patronage of loyal customers is helping, she said, but many people are too spooked to go anywhere near the construction.

It’s a shame because access to the restaurant has been largely unaffected by the work.

The restaurant sits in a pocket of buildings on the east side of I-25, north of Montgomery. Montaño Road from the west or Montgomery from the east will deliver you to the frontage road that goes right past the entrance. There are two parking lots: one just off the Pan American East frontage road, the other partially enclosed in front of the restaurant.

Inside, the restaurant splits off into two dining areas with contrasting looks and vibes. The indoor patio is bright, its butterscotch walls covered with artwork. The bar area, in contrast, calls to mind a nightclub with its black walls and loud music

I visited on a Saturday just before the dinner rush. Upon entering, I got a hearty greeting from the three people hanging out at the host stand. I chose a table in the bar area. Late ’90s/early 2000s rap boomed from the speakers.

DMX’s “Party Up” seemed like an appropriate anthem to attack a menu that is printed on a single sheet, with one side devoted to food, the other, drinks. The food is divided into Appetizers, New Mexican Soul Food, Sandwiches and Salads. More than a dozen sides fill out the menu. Gluten-free and spicy dishes are helpfully labeled on the menu.

The New Mexican Soul Food portion of the menu includes nine dishes, most costing between $15 and $20. Leading off is the Southern Fried Chicken & Waffle ($15.50). You can get it with two or three pieces of chicken. I chose the two-piece version with a bone-in breast and a thigh. The breast carried a $2.20 surcharge. Brining left the chicken juicy and salty under a thick, crackling coating that was peppery and non-greasy. Both pieces of chicken had a lot of meat on them and offered a contrast between the mild-flavored breast and the richer, fattier thigh. The thick, spongy waffle underneath held together well. The final bits of waffle, maple syrup and pieces of crisp fried chicken coating provided a tasty exclamation point to the meal. The standard waffle can be swapped out for a corn meal version.

The sides menu showcases many classics of Southern cooking. Collard Greens ($4.75) were heaped generously in a slightly oval bowl. The greens were nicely cooked, tender but not mushy, in a broth that was quite salty. Ham hocks added smokiness, and there was even a little heat even from red chile pods the greens are cooked in. A good dish if a little oversalted.

Mac & Cheese ($5.50) is made with hollow, spiral-shaped cavatappi pasta that was colorfully speckled with green chile and bacon bits. These add-ons were worth the $1 surcharge as they added some crunch, smoke and heat to the rather bland cheese sauce.

The eight varieties of beer brewed on site, plus some off-menu specials, are available in different-size pours, starting with a 10-ounce glass. The server recommended I pair my fried chicken with the Cream Ale ($5.50 for 10 ounces). With only 5% alcohol by volume, it’s one of the weaker beers on the roster. Pale gold in the glass, its smooth taste and high level of carbonation made it a good foil for the rich fried chicken.

The drinks menu also offers a wide selection of local wines and one local cider.

I also ordered two dishes to go.

First, the Fish Tacos ($17.50), available in swai and catfish. The fish can be grilled or fried. I chose the grilled swai, a flaky white fish with a mild, sweet flavor. The three tacos were served in a Styrofoam container with a cup of chipotle ranch dressing. Each taco held two large, amply seasoned pieces of swai topped with shredded cabbage. These were excellent tacos. The fish tasted fresh, the cabbage brought the crunch, and the dressing added punches of sourness and heat. On the side was a plastic tub of quinoa salad with black beans and corn. Unadorned, it was bland, but the accompanying cup of cilantro-lime vinaigrette transformed it into a tangy, nutty treat. There was enough for two people to share.

Also terrific was the to-go version of the Frito Pie ($14.50). The components were separated so that the corn chips wouldn’t get soggy on the way home. I found this to be a superior version thanks to the well-balanced mix of ground beef and pinto beans in an electric potion of red and green chile sauce. Additional points for being fun to put together at home. I topped it with sour cream to temper the heat.

Desserts like Cherry-Peach Cobbler ($6) follow Nexus’ Southern cooking theme. I got the Biscuit Bread Pudding ($6) to go. It was separated into two containers: one piled high with clumps of buttery biscuits; the other, a small cup of Nexus Scotch Ale Caramel Sauce. The malty caramel sauce softened and sweetened the dense biscuits, but in the end, it was just too much biscuit. Consider adding a scoop of vanilla ice cream to it for $2 extra.

Three salads and five sandwiches round out the menu. The sandwiches cost in the $15 range and include two different burgers.

The server was friendly and attentive, and the food came out quickly. Gluten-free options include the Frito Pie, the grilled Fish Tacos and a couple of the salads.

Don’t let the scary stories about I-25 construction deter you from trying Carson’s Nexus Brewery and Restaurant. It’s easy to get to and worth the trip for its smartly focused menu with big flavors and lots of heat.

Boldly going: Nexus delivers New Mexico soul food on the Interstate 25 corridor