Enchantment in a bottle: VARA releases its first sparkling wine made with 100% New Mexico grapes

VARA Winery & Distillery is staying New Mexico true with its recently released sparkling wine.

VARA’s 2023 New Mexico Sparkling Brut ($27), crafted by VARA winemaker and partner Laurent Gruet, features 100% New Mexican grapes, according to a VARA news release. This bottling marks the winemaker’s first sparkling wine in 25 years that is made only with grapes grown in New Mexico.

Enchantment in a bottle: VARA releases its first sparkling wine made with 100% New Mexico grapes

The winery has produced sparkling wines in the past that feature fruit from New Mexico, California and Washington.

“I am elated to have found some great growing partners in Southern New Mexico so that we can make a high-quality sparkling wine that is 100% from New Mexico and beautifully expresses the terroir of my home state,” Gruet said in a statement. “The 2023 harvest was one to remember, and the resulting wine is brimming with well-structured grapes that display beautiful, bright aromas. I’ve long known that New Mexico has the power to produce high-quality grapes, and in returning to my roots with this release, we here at VARA have demonstrated just that.”

The new sparkling wine emphasizes Gruet’s passion for wine in New Mexico. He joined the VARA team in December 2020 after making a name for himself in the world of domestic méthode champenoise sparkling wine, according to the news release. Méthode champenoise is a sparkling wine production method where wine undergoes a second fermentation process in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide, which is the engine behind the soft, bubbly mouthfeel in sparkling wine and Champagne. Méthode champenoise originated in the Champagne region of France.

Throughout his career, Gruet has produced more than 40 sparkling wines and understands the endless possibilities of New World sparkling wine.

Last year, Gruet welcomed his nephew, Sofian Himeur, to be part of VARA’s winemaking team. Together, they have crafted the 2023 VARA New Mexico Sparkling Brut, a méthode champenoise wine that blends 72% chenin blanc from Ludwig Farms in Anthony, 18% listán prieto from Cervantes Farms in Vado, and 10% pinot meunier from Los Ranchos de Albuquerque Vineyards, according to the news release.

“The inclusion of listán prieto honors New Mexico’s history as the birthplace of wine grape growing in the United States,” according to the news release. “It was here that the variety was first planted by Spanish missionaries, who began cultivating vines in 1629 before bringing them north to California.”

The fruit featured in the 2023 VARA New Mexico Sparkling Brut was handpicked before undergoing whole cluster pressing, according to the news release. Immediately after pressing, the juice was settled in stainless steel tanks for 48 hours.

The wine was “racked and inoculated” with specialized yeast strains selected by Gruet and Himeur, according to the news release. Being racked and inoculated are the processes that involve removing sediment and adding bacteria to wine.

Following fermentation, the wine was racked again and carefully blended before spending ten months on tirage, which is the drawing of wine from a barrel prior to bottling.

“We are honored that our first sparkling wine made from 100% New Mexican grapes was crafted by none other than winemaking legend Laurent Gruet,” said JP Clement, general manager and CEO of VARA, in a statement. “As an urban winery and craft distillery in Albuquerque, we endeavor to craft wines and spirits that reflect the essence of New Mexico. Upholding this commitment, we continue expanding our portfolio of New Mexican-grown wines to highlight our state’s terroir and can’t wait to share what’s to come.”

The VARA 2023 New Mexico Sparkling Brut is available online at varawines.com and at the VARA Winery & Distillery Balloon Fiesta Park, Nob Hill and Santa Fe tasting rooms.

VARA was founded in 2016 and creates wines and spirits from a New Mexican point of view, according to the news release. VARA is inspired by New Mexico’s boundary-pushing culture and the state’s history of winemaking, which spans nearly 400 years.