Es Que Market-Cafe offers dishes with high-quality, responsibly sourced ingredients at very reasonable prices

As a native New Mexican raised in Downtown Albuquerque, I have fond memories of family lunches at my grandmother’s house, located in the East Downtown area next to the historic Special Collections Library and across from the former iconic Pop ‘n’ Taco drive-thru. In the 1960s, the area now known as the Huning Highlands EDo district was viewed as an extension of Martineztown to the south. Before the arrival of large malls, Downtown was a lively hub filled with activity, where everyone worked nearby. This made it easy for families to come together for meals.

Most New Mexican families have farming roots. My mother’s family came from Hatch where they cultivated chile and pecans. We enjoyed traditional dishes prepared by New Mexican families, including roast chicken, beans, fresh salad made from garden vegetables, calabacitas, green chile in the caribe style, Hatch red chile and handmade, pillowy tortillas. Meals were typically finished off with a moist refrigerator cake for dessert. As a 3-year-old cared for by my 78-year-old Grandma Rosa, I considered myself the official sous chef and cohost of these gatherings, helping to form tortilla balls alongside my grandmother, who graciously hosted these grand lunchtime meals. Food was — and still is — my family’s love language.

My culinary career began in my grandmother’s kitchen on Edith Boulevard, just off Central Avenue. It then took me to Northern Spain, where I spent a decade from 1998 to 2008. During this period, I attended culinary school in San Sebastián, located in the Basque region, for three years, while also gaining valuable experience working in bars, bistros, hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants. The Basque region is known as the culinary Mecca of Europe. Following that, I served as an executive chef in Spain, Austria and Greece.

After returning to New Mexico to care for my aging parents, I started to see New Mexican cuisine in a new light. I began to look for food that was both innovative and sourced from sustainable places. I believe that a simple burrito made with intention and love can be just as extraordinary as a Michelin-star meal at famed Mugaritz in San Sebastián.

Recently, I discovered a small breakfast and lunch restaurant in the heart of Downtown that satisfies my craving for New Mexican flavors, executed with intention and featuring fresh ingredients sourced from local farms.

Es Que Market-Cafe is a breakfast and lunch café that offers New Mexico classics with a healthy and innovative twist. The name, pronounced “SK,” translates in English to “it’s like that” and is used prolifically in New Mexican Spanish as a filler phrase and serves as a warm, nostalgic reminder of the Spanish spoken here in New Mexico.

David Swan, a New Mexico native who has been cooking professionally since he was 14, runs the café with his wife, Jessica. Swan sources vegetables, meats and grains from local farms. The first time I visited this jewel of a café, I found his burrito, made al minute, to be transformative.

Es Que opened in 2021 in a building owned by The Guadalupe Project, situated across the street from the PNM building. Swan takes great pride in preparing each dish from scratch, making sure he knows the source of every ingredient, all of which comes from local farms. When you walk into his restaurant, you are welcomed by his warm hospitality.

The space is adorned with beautiful relics of La Virgen de Guadalupe from New Mexico, strings of marigold flowers, and a warm, inviting light. It provides a relaxing atmosphere where you can entertain friends, read a book or even get some work done, thanks to the large tables and pleasant ambiance.

The Hongo Burrito ($9) includes two fried eggs that resemble an omelet, boasting a soft and silky texture, along with crispy potatoes and cheese that has been caramelized on the grill. It is paired with your choice of red or green chile and barbecued mushrooms that have a meaty texture and flavor. Like all dishes at Es Que, the Hongo Burrito is made fresh to order. Priced at $9, it comes with a generous serving of either a garden salad, potato salad or coleslaw.

The Pajarito Verde Salad ($12) is a salad dressed with a light lemon garlic aioli made with a mix of bitter greens, pickled onions and purslane. Often regarded as a common “weed,” purslane has been enjoyed as a vegetable, known as “verdolaga,” in New Mexico for generations. It can be eaten raw or cooked and is recognized for its succulent leaves, slightly salty flavor, and high content of omega-3 fatty acids and other nutrients.

Swan is full of energy and enjoys sharing information about where his food comes from. He enthusiastically exclaimed, “These greens were picked this morning from my garden.” He then asked, “Do you know about purslane?” Coincidentally, my friend, who was having lunch with me, had brought freshly picked purslane from her vegetable garden, and it was sitting on the table wrapped in a dish towel. I’m a big fan of verdolaga!

The chicken salad that accompanied the Pajarito Verde was made with tender chicken thighs cooked at high heat, which gave it a moistness typically associated with brining, and it was topped with a light homemade aioli. I could easily eat this salad every day; it’s healthy, light and very filling. At just $12, it offers a complete meal.

In addition to huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, burritos and tacos, the menu features a variety of handcrafted sandwiches. One standout option is the Chicano ($9), which is a twist on the classic Cubano, made with slow-cooked pork and New Mexico spices. The bread, similar to focaccia, is Swan’s homemade recipe that is grilled to achieve a slight caramelization and crust. This gives the sandwich a crunchy exterior while keeping the inside warm and moist.

The Chicano comes with a garden salad, homemade potato salad, or coleslaw.

In addition to the food selection, there is an atole made with blue corn, nuts and either almond milk or cow’s milk. It is a delightful breakfast porridge option or healthy dessert.

Atole ($5) is a traditional Mexican beverage with deep roots in Indigenous Mesoamerican cultures, and it has a significant presence in New Mexican cuisine as well. The origins of atole can be traced back to ancient civilizations such as the Aztec and the Maya, who consumed it as a nutritious drink made from masa (corn dough) mixed with water or milk and sweetened with various ingredients like sugar, vanilla or chocolate. The atole served at Es Que is a healthy take on the original because it is low in sugar and made with wholesome ingredients.

Es Que is a breakfast and lunch spot that offers high-quality, responsibly sourced ingredients at very reasonable prices. I have a feeling it will soon become one of my go-to places to relax and enjoy a meal.

I am excited to continue to uncover the rich and diverse food offerings in Albuquerque and Santa Fe that are off the beaten path, showcasing wonderful treasures that are budget-friendly.

Es Que Market-Cafe offers dishes with high-quality, responsibly sourced ingredients at very reasonable prices