For a change: In its fourth decade of operation, Seasons remains as fresh and energetic as ever

During a recent dinner at Seasons, the fine-dining establishment near Old Town, I couldn’t help but think back to my previous visit.

It was the summer of 2020 and the pandemic had shut down indoor dining. Seasons’ normally bustling dining room and rooftop patio were so barren I half-expected to see a tumbleweed blow by. I parked in front of the restaurant on a deserted Mountain Road and walked into a mostly darkened space. Dinner was delivered at the host stand in a few cardboard boxes to be reheated at home.

It was a tough stretch for one of the mainstays of Albuquerque’s fine-dining scene, but judging by recent appearances, Seasons has come out the other side in good shape. On a Saturday night, the dining room was full and noisy. There were no parking spaces on Mountain; diners had to park in the free garage nearby. The only reservation available online was at 4:30 p.m.

Opened in 1995, Seasons was an early foray into the restaurant business for twins Keith and Kevin Roessler, who’ve since gone on to launch Zinc, Savoy and The Gorge Bar & Grill in Taos.

It’s a multifaceted operation, with a rooftop bar, an elegant dining room and function space and outdoor seating during warm weather. All of it fits in a handsome building set on a bend on Mountain Road just north of Old Town. The façade is marked by a colonnade along the front, over which vigas protrude like the barricades of a medieval fortress.

For a change: In its fourth decade of operation, Seasons remains as fresh and energetic as ever

Inside, the dining room stretches out narrowly under a low arched ceiling, the far end demarcated by wine racks. Like Savoy, Seasons features an open kitchen where several cooks work shrouded in steam and smoke.

The dining room is open for dinner five nights a week. The rooftop patio offers a Happy Hour from 4-6:30 p.m. on weekdays with bar food like crispy shrimp and fried cauliflower bites.

As the restaurant’s name indicates, the food and drinks menu changes with the seasons. The winter cocktail menu features rums, coffee-infused scotch and warm spices. The Bulls on Parade ($14) presents a mix of artisanal mezcal and grapefruit juice in a highball glass. The bittersweet fruit nicely balanced the smoky, peppery mezcal.

The winter food menu leans toward the heavy and hearty, as in a starter of a Roasted Butternut Squash and Three Cheese Tart ($15). What looked a like a pile of quesadillas at first glance was actually thin slices of butternut squash enveloped in flaky, buttery pastry. It was particularly tasty around the edges where the squash had caramelized. The portion size was hefty, especially for a starter. This is one to share, and since I was the only one in my party who could tolerate gluten, half of it went home to be reheated the next day.

Entrees range in price from $22 for Pumpkin Pappardelle to $49 for Seared Wild Jumbo Sea Scallops. I had the pappardelle. The ribbons of pasta, made in house, were notably chewy, their sweetness tempered with a tangy garlic-white wine sauce. Between the pumpkin and the fried sage, it’s a dish perhaps more suited for fall than winter, but nonetheless fulfilling on a cold night.

One item that’s on the menu regardless of the season is the ever-reliable Rotisserie Chicken ($28). The chicken was moist and a little smoky, with an ideal balance of white and dark meat. It was served cut up and leaned against a big hunk of crusty, buttery green chile cornbread that left a lingering burn. Sweet potato smashers, mashed but still a little lumpy, provided a spicy accompaniment. A glass of Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc ($14, 6-oz. glass), a fruity German white, had ample acidity to pair with the neutral taste of the chicken.

Another longstanding menu item is the Pan-roasted Beef Tenderloin ($42) with sides tweaked for the time of year. The steak was served in the middle of a large plate over a rich and slightly sweet apple-brandy demi-glace. It was cooked to the requested medium rare. Sides were a mix of fingerling and purple potatoes and fried Brussels sprouts. The sprouts were a bit more interesting, their outer layers crisp and very salty.

Among the desserts, the Layered Crème Brûlée and Flourless Chocolate Cake Duo is an inspired creation. The thin layer of custard on top cut the dense richness of the chocolate, and the sheet of caramelized sugar added some crackle. Mascarpone and Citrus Ice Cream ($6), served in two good-sized scoops, tasted terrific, like a rich orange sherbet, but left an unpleasant film on the tongue.

Service was stellar and the meal’s pace was leisurely without being glacial. The server knew the menu well, and the kitchen was able to tweak dishes to make them suitable for the gluten-free diners in our party.

Now in its fourth decade of operation, Seasons remains as fresh and energetic as ever. The consistent quality of food and drink and service and the seasonal updates to the menu place it in the upper tier of Albuquerque fine-dining.