Hollyhocks not difficult to grow with these tips

Q: I have trouble growing hollyhocks. What am I doing wrong? I see them growing in the seams of pavement, but can’t grow them in my yard! — MG., Albuquerque

A: You don’t say if you are planting from seed or purchasing young plants to set in the spring, so, here it goes.

I’ve learned that if you’re going to grow from seed, you start the seeding indoors about eight weeks before the last frost. It’s recommended that you use really tall pots. Hollyhocks are really deep-rooted creatures, so starting in a shallow pot won’t do. They also prefer well-draining potting mix when started by seed. Try mixing a scant third of sand into two-thirds potting mix to be assured of adequate drainage.

You’ll want to place two-to-three seeds in each pot and cover them, barely, with a slight layer of your potting mix. After setting the seed, you’ll want to offer as much light as possible during germination and keep the top of the pots misted, so the soil stays just moist, but not soggy. Keep the starter pots in a tray and bi-weekly, add some water to the tray, allowing those pots soak up some water to assist with the soil moistening. Again, don’t keep them soggy wet.

If the garden gods are with you, the seed will germinate and push their deep roots into those tall pots. As soon as the weather cooperates, hopefully after the last frost, you’ll aim to plant. If the weather does get chilly, a surprise late frost after you’ve planted, you’ll want to offer protection by covering the babies each night and remembering to uncover each morning until the weather moderates.

Now, where you plant is one thing you need to plan on. By nature, hollyhocks tend to grow large. Space the seedlings or any bedding plants you purchase with at least two feet between them. You’ll also need to make sure the soil in the garden area is deeply turned. A usual 8-inch deep turning won’t make for happy hollyhocks. Go deep, and depending on the health of the soil, consider adding compost as you turn. Hollyhocks are best known as plants that grow along fences or along the back edge of gardens since they get so tall.

I do know from watching them that they grow better if offered a break from the hot sun, especially after two in the afternoon. They’ll do well with full-morning sun and wouldn’t be adverse to late afternoon sun, but would appreciate a break from the hot midday sun.

If you are a consistent overhead waterer you need to stop doing that. Hollyhocks are prone to a disease called rust which is more prevalent on plants that are consistently watered from above. Get in the habit of allowing a hose to wet the ground, or use a soaker hose draped thoughtfully through the area. Remember, hollyhocks will not grow their best if kept really wet. Deep, relatively infrequent watering will keep them healthier.

You can plant the hollyhock from seed directly into the garden too. The secret is, again, to not plant them too deep. Scratch a fairly shallow spot and set two or three seeds there. Scrape the soil to cover, not bury, and keep those spots dampened. If you choose to plant directly from seed, a week or two after the last frost would be best. Hollyhocks aren’t difficult unless you overtend them.

You can grow hollyhocks in this area and have great success as long as the places chosen and care you offer is appropriate.

Dear readers, next week I’ll share thoughts sent to me on the tomato hornworm. People wrote in sharing information about these yucky creatures that do become that remarkably beautiful moth.

Til then, Happy Diggin’ In!

Tracey Fitzgibbon is a certified nurseryman. Send garden-related questions to Digging In, Albuquerque Journal, 7777 Jefferson NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, or to features@abqjournal.com.