International star: Coda is a James Beard-nominated bakery and much more

Waiting in line at Coda Bakery, the acclaimed Vietnamese restaurant in the International District, is an exercise in temptation.

The queue takes you past display cases and baskets filled with Vietnamese specialties in dazzling colors. Here, slices of Pandan Cake look like bright green sponges. There, yellow mung bean paste makes a beautiful contrast to a bed of sweet purple sticky rice below it.

“That looks good,” you think. Moments later: “I have to try this.”

By the time you reach the register, you’re likely to have an armful of stuff to add to your order.

The dizzying variety of baked goods and prepared foods on display is just one reason that Coda has become one of the more unlikely success stories in the local restaurant scene.

Originally called Banh Mi Coda, the bakery and restaurant started its life squeezed into a strip mall opposite Talin Market in the International District. Against all odds, people found it and word spread. It became a fixture on local “best of” lists. Guy Fieri of Food Network fame paid a visit to learn how owner Uyen Nguyen makes her famous tofu. Recently, it was named a James Beard Award semifinalist for Outstanding Bakery.

The popularity necessitated a larger space, and in 2023 Nguyen found one a few blocks west in a large strip mall called Central Mercado that commands the southwest corner of the Central Avenue and San Pedro Drive SE intersection. There are entrances on both the Central and San Pedro sides.

The dining room is a big box filled with two-top tables. During a recent lunch, lots of tables had been pushed together to accommodate a large group from nearby Kirtland Air Force Base. The din of conversation rose as the dining room filled.

The menu is displayed above the counter on black panels artfully decorated with calligraphy. Dishes are numbered and presented with both their Vietnamese and English names. You order at the counter and wait for your number to be called.

Banh Mi — the name means “sandwich” in Vietnamese — remains the star attraction. Coda has a dozen variations filled with proteins like chicken, pork, shrimp sausage and meatballs.

The Coda Combo ($9.75) showcases the possibilities of pork. There are no less than five variations offering different textures and flavors, from the thin, delicate French ham called jambon to the thick, rubbery and pale slices of Vietnamese ham. Every component adds something. The pork belly brings richness and crispy skin, the pâté adds creaminess and the head cheese spices everything up. The meat is tucked into a baguette baked to a light brown, with a crisp outer layer and soft middle and a smear of rich, yellow Vietnamese mayo. Pickled carrots, cucumber and sliced jalapeño deliver crunch and a bit of heat. A great sandwich.

After the sandwiches comes an impressive selection of Spring Rolls that are hefty enough to serve as entrees.

I tried the #23 ($7.75) with shredded pork and pork skin. The two rolls, individually wrapped in plastic and served on a shallow tray, were the size of sub sandwiches. On one side of the roll, fresh lettuce, cucumber and bean sprouts, delivered the crunch. The other side was a tangle of shredded pork, pork skin and rice vermicelli tossed with rice powder that, with its nutty flavor and gritty texture, called to mind crushed peanuts. The sweet and sizzling fish sauce added flavor while relieving the dryness of the rice powder. Despite the name, the sauce has only the faintest hint of the sea.

Other sections of the menu are devoted to Salad Bowls ($10.50) dressed in soy vinaigrette, Rice Combos ($14.50) served with an over-easy egg, and Noodle Bowls and Rice Dishes ($11.95 each). A version of the latter, the #82 is comprised of marinated grilled chicken served in a shallow bowl with sticky rice, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and a pile of pickled carrots. The chicken breast, marked from the grill and sliced crosswise, carried some umami from the soy-based marinade, and the sticky rice was addictive. It’s a solid dish in a generous portion, but next time I think I’ll order the tofu bowl, a dish my neighbor at the next table seemed to enjoy immensely.

Vietnamese-themed beverages include fresh-squeezed Limeade ($4.75), sweet, creamy Vietnamese Coffee ($4.95) and a selection of smoothies made with tropical fruits. In the Avocado with Boba Smoothie ($6), dark pearls of tapioca starch are visible at the bottom of the plastic cup. They added some chewiness and a burnt caramel flavor, but ultimately, I didn’t think the thick, sweet avocado shake needed any embellishment.

Among the sweet and savory treats displayed near the counter, I was drawn to the unusual list of ingredients in the Che Ba Ba ($4.75), a variation of tapioca pudding served in a plastic cup. Along with tapioca, there was cassava, sweet potato, peanuts, mung bean, coconut milk and, most intriguingly, seaweed. Thin strands of it were bountiful throughout but imparted little flavor. Mostly it tasted like a soupy, peanut-flavored tapioca pudding.

The green and white layers that make up the Coconut Pandan Jelly ($4.25), one of the most eye-catching options on display, are made with jellied coconut milk and pandan extract. Both were very firmly set, with a discreet coconut aroma and an even more discreet flavor.

Among the takeaway baked goods displayed next to the register are baguettes, egg rolls and Pâté Chaud, a glistening meat pie filled with minced pork. The rack of Croissants ($5.25) looked depleted, so I grabbed one before they ran out. A wise decision. The spiral croissant, its crisp shell topped with coarse sugar over a soft and very buttery core loaded with raisins, was superb.

The countertop operation ran efficiently throughout the lunch rush. There were only a couple of people staffing it when I arrived, but as the line grew, more workers materialized and things moved swiftly.

There are vegetarian entrees and some of the spring rolls and rice dishes are gluten-free or can be made that way. Many of the display-case treats are labelled gluten-free.

Albuquerque has quietly become a great city for bakeries, with several places attracting national television attention and James Beard Award recognition in recent years. Coda is among the city’s best, and it finally has a space befitting its status. One visit and you’ll want to return again and again.

International star: Coda is a James Beard-nominated bakery and much more