Still kicking: Western View Diner and Steak House a throwback to an earlier time

What is the oldest restaurant in Albuquerque?

A likely candidate is Lindy’s Diner, formerly the Coney Island Café, which has been in operation Downtown since 1929.

Now that Lindy’s is reportedly up for sale, Western View Diner and Steak House has emerged as a possible successor. The place opened on old Route 66 in 1937, two years before World War II and 30 years before Interstate 40 was completed through Albuquerque.

Still kicking: Western View Diner and Steak House a throwback to an earlier time

Western View’s age is evident in the weathered wood that tops the L-shaped counter around the kitchen. Models of classic cars line shelves behind the old school cash register and the walls are adorned with photos of old Hollywood movie stars. The menu of roadside diner comfort food like chicken-fried steak and milkshakes makes few concessions to the modern world.

Western View has gone by different names in its 10 decades of operation. In the early days, it was the last stop on Route 66 before the vast, empty spaces west of the city. By night, it was a place to pick up some grub after seeing Glen Campbell and other country-and-western musicians play at the Hitching Post next door. With neighbor Mac’s La Sierra, it represents the last of the pre-interstate Route 66 diners.

The restaurant’s location on Central Avenue just east of the Coors Boulevard intersection is marked by a tall neon sign threaded with a golden arrow that points toward the entrance. There is parking along two sides of the stucco, tile-roofed building and in a large lot behind it.

Seating in the spacious dining room is a mix of tables and booths. On a recent Saturday night, the dining room was about half full. We settled into a comfortable booth away from the windows. Music of the 1970s and ’80s sounding from the speakers on the wall added to the throwback vibe.

The meal began with a complimentary bowl of chips and salsa. The chips were crisp and warm, the accompanying bowl of salsa was soupy and only mildly spicy, with a big hunk of green chile poking up in the middle like an island.

The menu covers a wide swath. Hankering for breakfast? You can get pancakes, French toast and omelets all day. Craving Italian food? Try the Veal Parmigiana over spaghetti ($9.75). How about Mexican? There’s a whole section of it featuring burritos, enchiladas and chile rellenos. There are even a couple of Greek dishes, a nod to the ethnic heritage of the owners. Prices are reasonable. Most entrees check in at under $20 and many cost less than $10.

We started off with a cup of the soup of the day, a spin on green chile stew with shredded pork, mushrooms, potatoes and roasted red peppers. Thick and meaty with a slight sizzle of spice and a modest salt level, it was a terrific starter.

Steak choices include Top Sirloin ($16.95), Ribeye ($25.95) and a 20-ounce T-bone called the Cattlemen’s Choice ($33.99). An order of the latter prompted a visit to our table from the chef, who advised us that the only T-bone he had was an imposing 2-inch-thick slab that weighed in at considerably more than 20 ounces.

When we couldn’t decide, he retrieved it from the kitchen. We shrugged and gave the OK. You only live once.

Some 30-plus minutes later, the steak arrived at our table, filling the plate so completely that the baked potato had to be served on a separate dish. Cutting into it released lots of juice that tasted of garlic and Worcestershire sauce. The cooking, however, was uneven. Around the edges, it was medium rare; around the bone, it was raw. The tab for it was an eye-popping $60. I tried to get my money’s worth by taking the uncooked parts back home and using them to make beef stroganoff for dinner the next day.

Each of the seven Combo Platters pair a protein and a Mexican dish with rice and beans. Prices range from $9.75 to $17.99. I ordered the Pork Chops over Cheese Enchiladas ($11.95) with the red and green chile sauces on the side. I don’t carry fond memories of pork chops with me, but the two thin, boneless slabs in this dish were juicy and tasty. Underneath was a couple of unrolled enchiladas with a layer of congealed yellow cheese over them and some unremarkable beans and rice.

Both of the chile sauces were considerably spicier than the salsa that came with the chips. The red one displayed a more earthy flavor, while the green was thicker and blazing hot. Proceed with caution. Two fresh, warm sopaipillas served on the side with a packet of honey helped temper the heat of the chile.

Also tempering the heat was a Chocolate Shake ($6.99) from the beverages portion of the menu. The shake arrived in a glass topped with whipped cream and a cherry. The serving was modest in size and tasted like vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce added.

Dessert selections are centered around an impressive selection of pies including fruit, custard and cream varieties. The server told us that some were made in-house and others came from outside bakeries. I ordered a slice of the Boston Cream Pie ($4.75). Technically speaking, it’s a cake, with two layers of vanilla cake sandwiched around a custard filling and topped with chocolate frosting. Western View’s version was excellent: fresh and light, with the rich, slightly bitter chocolate and the creamy custard pairing together beautifully.

Service from the three women who worked the dining room was prompt and friendly. There are a reasonable number of options for vegetarian and gluten-free diners, with one section of the menu devoted to salads and low-calorie plates.

Even without the Hitching Post next door, Western View is still worth a trip. It offers good service and a varied, reasonably priced menu to go with its historical ambience.