My Moms provides a comfort cooking in the heart of Downtown

I never believed in the phrase “home away from home” until I ate at My Moms.

For those not privy to the name of this Downtown restaurant, I’m not talking about my own mom’s house in San Antonio, Texas, some 700 miles southeast of Albuquerque.

Nestled in the heart of Downtown, the restaurant isn’t an obvious spot for comfort, sitting just outside the Bernallilo County Public Safety Center.

In fact, many of the customers at My Moms sport badges with the city’s gray logo, the county’s green lanyards or the occasional PNM polo. Though, like them, I like to think that when my work leads me Downtown, we’re all drawn to My Moms to step away from our jobs for a sense of comfort and familiarity.

My Moms specializes in food that provides a universal level of comfort. For me, that comfort takes me back to my abuelita’s cooking, specifically the Green Chile Chicken Tacos ($10).

The tacos are prepared and plated almost the same way as the chicken fajita tacos my grandmother would make for my grandfather after his morning of yard work, or the ones she made for my brother and I from childhood to when we came back to visit from college.

The green chile is the tinge of uniqueness I really crave, the nod to New Mexico, blended with the other ingredients that bring the past and the present all to one plate.

While not made in-house, the quality of the tortillas shouldn’t be downplayed, either. Sourced locally from Sabroso Foods or Albuquerque Tortilla Company, they don’t carry the unwanted sweetness of their mass-produced counterparts.

On a recent visit, I ordered “Mom’s Little Bowl of Love,” ($10.50) a stew that’s not just lunch, it’s Mexican comfort food with a New Mexican soul.

It features thin broth and short, chewy noodles, with carne that pokes just above the stew, topped with shredded cheese.

As a Tejano — so take this with a grain of salt, New Mexican friends — my answer to the state’s question on this dish is Christmas. The mix of both chiles provides a new kick each time that has you racing to the bottom of the bowl. And the zucchini and corn mixed in provides relief from the spoonfuls of spice.

On regular visits to My Moms, I see the New Mexico Patty Melts ($11.50) on tables all around me, but it’s not my favorite.

The light pink chipotle Thousand Island sauce below the top piece of toast adds minimal flavor but creates a maximum mess. While the red and green chile elevate the dish above the quality of a Whataburger patty melt, the time and effort to devour a sandwich this big and sloppy doesn’t provide the peaceful lunch hour that brings me back to My Moms frequently.

Workers from across Downtown spill into the inviting cafe for the affordable menu curated by James-Beard nominated Chef Marie Yniguez, often you’ll see the chef herself on the grill.

Her dedication to providing home-cooked meals in unison with a cozy atmosphere defies an inherently corporate location — a combination that makes My Moms a popular midday escape.

And in the case of one Journal reporter, a comfort that crosses state lines.

My Moms provides a comfort cooking in the heart of Downtown