A taste of Japan: Kai delivers stellar sushi, quality food

Sushi has been a part of my culinary repertoire since the late ‘80s. Sushi is a super fresh and healthy meal that satisfies every time, anytime. Because it is not seasonal, sushi lovers enjoy this Japanese delicacy throughout summer, fall, winter and spring. And while I have been known to eat sushi in Santa Fe, it merely scratches the itch, but never wows me. Until now.

A friend recently introduced me to the city’s premier sushi spot which opened in 2011, Kai Sushi & Dining, and I have been smiling ever since. Located on St. Michael’s Drive at Pacheco Street in the Plaza del Sol strip center, this hidden gem is all that and more.

The restaurant was busy when we arrived on both visits, and at first glance, this is a date night hot spot and family-friendly. The extensive menu appeals to all tastes and features sushi but also plenty of cooked dishes for those who aren’t into raw fish. Gratefully, the universe reserved us two premier spots at the bar. We happily slid in and that’s when the fun began.

Soon after arriving, the inherent Zen-like atmosphere naturally helps you relax. I started with a steeping pot of Jasmine Tea ($3), always a welcome commodity as the weather begins to cool. They also offer Green Tea ($3), along with a wide array of beer, wine and sakes to set the tone for a traditional Japanese meal. If you enjoy soft drinks, try Ramune ($3.50), Japanese soda that comes in three flavors — original, strawberry and orange. “The original flavor is very close to Sprite,” says Sara Gankhuyag, who bought Kai Sushi outright in 2016 with her husband, Solo Ganbayar, who is also Kai’s sushi chef.

Though the interior is simple, it is sparkling clean which is always appreciated. My dining companion alerted me that she happily found hooks in the bathroom for women’s purses. We agreed that this touch reflects a profound attention to detail — and that is exactly what sushi requires. “Most sushi chefs begin their career washing dishes and slowly move up the ranks until years later when they become a sushi chef,” she adds.

As for the menu’s evolution, Gankhuyag says, “I have been continuously improving the restaurant. My chefs come up with their own plates and flavors. The specials highly reflect their skill and their customer’s preferences.” Ganbayar was behind the sushi counter both nights I visited. The first visit, he had a male counterpart, and on my return visit, Ganbayar was flanked by two young females deftly working as sushi chefs. These three steadily created assorted, often intense rolls, slicing the freshest fish for nigiri, filling colorful rolls and hand rolls with artistic plating.

More than 18 appetizers will tempt you — as you can easily make a meal with a few apps. Steamed and salted Edamame ($3.95) feel like a steal at that price and are a fun way to entertain yourself while you enjoy a drink. Deep fried Gyoza ($6.95) comes five to an order stuffed with pork or vegetables, while tempura is offered three ways — Vegetable ($8.95), Vegetable & Shrimp ($10.95) and Vegetable & Calamari ($10.95). Not one to pass up a cup of Miso Soup ($2.95), Kai’s version is a perfectly balanced soybean soup with floating bits of wakame, scallions and tiny cubes of tofu. This soothing soup heals whatever ails you.

Harumaki ($6.95), vegetable spring rolls, come five to an order. They arrive crispy golden with a light concoction of vegetables inside that didn’t dazzle me, but the accompanying sweet sauce is an ideal foil for the crispy fried rolls.

The Hamachi Kama ($15.95) is a stand-out. The collar of a yellowtail fish is cooked with the skin on and fried so the meat is succulent and the skin is crispy. Once you dip the fish into the spicy ponzu sauce, you will forever be changed. This is a delicacy, so when you see it on a menu, consider it a gift from the universe. This is a dish you won’t want to miss.

Nigiri is the staple sushi, and this is the freshest fish in town. A two-bite nigiri comes two to an order and features a thin, raw slice of your fish of choice over a finger of rice. We had Big Eye Tuna ($8.95), a special, as well as Salmon Belly ($8.95) and Salmon ($8.95) nigiri and we savored every bite.

While nigiri is the classic sushi, they also have sashimi for those who merely want fish. Eight pieces of Bigeye Tuna ($24.95), Salmon ($21.95) and Yellowtail ($21.95) can be a light meal. Though truth be told, most sushi restaurants pride themselves on elaborate rolls that are creatively concocted, stunningly beautiful and palate pleasers.

Under the Regular Rolls, we devoured the classic Spicy Tuna ($10.95) and it is spicy. Thankfully, the soy-wasabi dipping sauce works to temper the spicy kick. Crab fans will dig the Soft Shell Crab Roll ($13.95) which is as gorgeous as it is delicious. Tempura fried soft shell crab, cucumber and avocado are wrapped with rice and seaweed paper to make a substantial roll that is everything you want it to be — warm and crispy, savory, cold, fresh and absolutely addictive.

An expansive listing of 29 Special Rolls are the stars of the menu. Naturally, Kai has two rolls that include green chile — Green Chile One ($11.45) features a tempura-fried green chile with spicy tuna and Green Chile Two ($13.95) also has a tempura fried shrimp and spicy crab instead of tuna.

If you say no way to sushi, there are cooked dishes to lure you in. Choose from variations of Fried Rice ($11.95-$17.95) to Yakisoba ($11.95) to Udon Noodle Soup ($10.95), Teriyaki Chicken ($16.95) and Teriyaki Salmon ($18.95), Chicken Katsu ($16.95) also known as chicken fingers served with tonkatsu sauce, and Yakiniku ($17.95), beef marinated in a sweet soy sauce and sauteed with vegetables.

These entrees are also offered as lunch specials at lower prices ($9.95-$17.55), and include miso soup or salad and white rice. Feeling like a light lunch, go for the Bento Boxes.

Desserts are simple with Mochi Ice Cream ($4.95), two ice cream bon-bons in green tea, mango or strawberry, covered in sweet rice dough. Green Tea Ice Cream ($5.95-$6.95), or vanilla ice cream, can be served as is or fried. And then there is the Cheesecake Tempura ($6.95) for something more decadent.

In addition to Kai, the owners also have Izmi Sushi on Marcy Street, which has an almost identical menu. However, look for omosake before the end of this year. Omosake means to entrust the chef with your food and this exciting new endeavor involves customized, multiple courses featuring seasonal ingredients. Whether you are in midtown or downtown, you now have a righteous option for quality Japanese food, as well as stellar sushi when the mood strikes.